American Adventure – Update 4

Today’s sightseeing was a bit of a nightmare, it involved getting incredibly lost, thankfully this was more than compensated for by the quality of the food.

Breakfast – Sweet Maple

Eggs benedict are incredibly popular in San Francisco, with umpteen variations offered by restaurants. On my host’s recommendation I ventured past Japantown to Sweet Maple. The friendly staff had me seated in seconds and I ordered their signature dish – dungeness benedict with a side of millionaire bacon. Dungeness benedict is essentially a scone, with wilted spinach, crab meat and a poached egg, drizzled with hollandaise and served with fried root vegetables. Millionaires bacon is an ultra thick slice of belly pork, cured and marinated in a spicy maple syrup before being fried and dipped in yet more maple syrup. Both were gorgeous. Sweet Maple is almost as good as ‘Mama’s on Washington Sqaure’ but without the ridiculous queue!

20120523-211042.jpg

20120523-211054.jpg

Lunch – Blue Barn Gourmet

Highly rated in the Lonely Planet, blue barn gourmet is situated down in the marina district. It specialises in organic salads and sandwiches. Their most popular special is their Cobber salad. Lettuce, tomato, croutons, chicken, bacon, avocado and egg. The dressing is a house special ranch. As a salad, it’s perfectly nice, but it’s just that – nice. The ingredients are great but it doesn’t do anything particularly inventive or exciting with them.

20120523-222338.jpg

Dinner – Harris

America is synonymous with steak. Finding the ‘best’ steak restaurant in San Francisco proved a real challenge, with lots of conflicting opinions. I finally settled on ‘Harris’.

20120523-221701.jpg

20120523-221721.jpg

They offer a 21-day dry-aged steak in a sophisticate, but relaxed environs. Modelled on a stereotypical view of a London members club, it’s all dark oak and comfy armchairs. A pianist plays in the corner while the barman rustles up a stunning martini.

    Ever wondered how to keep your Martini cold enough without diluting it with too much ice? Harris chill all the ingredients, quickly shake over ice in a chilled container before straining into a small carafe which is placed into a miniature barrel of ice, ready to pour as needed. Yum.

20120523-221550.jpg

The steak itself was enormous, I went with a bone-in rib-eye, and it must have weighed upwards of 20oz. The plate is vast.

20120523-222239.jpg

I asked for rare it it definitely came medium, but it was so good I couldn’t really complain. I’m writing a longer post soon about beef/steaks in general so the detail of what I thought will be there. But overall it was a great experience which I would heartily recommend to anyone visiting San Francisco.

American Adventure – Update 3

Brunch is a serious affair in San Francisco and the fact that people are prepared to queue for an hour at 8am to get it shows how picky they are.

‘Mama’s on Washington Square’ has won a slew of accolades, featuring in Time magazine, the Lonely Planet and sitting atop many review websites. I set out bright and early this morning to find out why. Washington Square is in the centre of Little Italy with the prerequisite Italian grandmothers feeding parrots, Chinese ladies doing tai chi and school kids waiting to catch the bus. By 9am the queue for Mama’s already snaked past the next two shops. Determined not to be put off I patiently waited almost an hour before being seated. The staff were fantastic and when they brought me the house special I understood what all the fuss was about.

20120522-195807.jpg

The French toast sampler consists of three kinds of bread (walnut and cranberry; banana and blueberry; swiss cinnamon) dipped in a special batter and lightly fried. Piled up on a plate with fresh berries and banana, drizzled with maple syrup. It’s got to be one of the best breakfasts I’ve eaten. Stunning stuff.

After a frantic morning sightseeing, I was in desperate need of some lunch, I battled through the painfully touristy ‘Fisherman’s Wharf’ (think Blackpool with a star spangled banner) to get to ‘In-n-out’ burger. A Californian institution, they’ve been serving ‘proper’ fast food since 1948. The chips are made from potatoes fresh for each batch of fries, right in front of you. The beef is never frozen and is freshly ground onsite every day. Oh and they also have a secret menu.

20120522-200310.jpg

20120522-200320.jpg

By adding certain words to your order, you can get special things done to your burger. I went for a double-double ‘animal style’ and a chocolate milkshake. Animal style adds chopped fried onions, extra sauce, and mustard grilled patties. The result is just fab. The milkshakes are incredible – so thick you can barely suck them through a straw.

20120522-200709.jpg

For dinner I was keen to experience a cuisine more closely associated with the Southern states – barbecue. ‘The Pub on Ghirardelli’ is a sports bar that has managed to claw its way up the review site rankings thanks to some superb meat. Great slabs of it are coated in a special spice rub and smoked for up to 14 hours to create a texture so meltingly tender you barely need to chew. I ordered the brisket and pork shoulder. Both were superb, but the star of the show was their jalapeño coleslaw – fresh, homemade and fantastically spicey, it was a really interesting take on a normally mundane side dish.

20120523-205830.jpg

American Adventure – Update 2

Having finally made it back to San Francisco (via an unscheduled recharge in Sausalito) we set off in search of a light mobile lunch. The local store is Whole Foods. I admit that I have never ventured into their London store, but after having visited here I certainly will. Any shop that lets you make your own peanut butter, sells more flours than you can shake a baguette at and has every kind of Valrhona couverture available by weight is definitely worth a trip!

The evenings sustenance came courtesy of ‘Scoma’, one of San Francisco’s oldest restaurants and a waypoint on the tourist trail. Almost completely unchanged since the 1950’s, haute cuisine it is not. Compared with ‘The Girl and the Fig’ it offers a fascinating insight into where American cuisine has come from, and where it’s going.

Scoma sells seafood, the menu groans under the weight of fish, shellfish and every combination possible. To start I shared their platter, a mix of oysters, clams, prawns and crabs. All were fresh and delicious. The main was a fried mix of halibut, scallops and shrimp, served with a frankly odd side of pasta, rice and steamed veg.

Monday brought with it the chance to branch out on my own while my flat mate headed off to work – following the Lonely Planet, reinforced by his recommendation, I went for breakfast at ‘Brenda’s Soulfood’. On arrival the queue was reassuringly large but I was quickly seated by the friendly staff and the house special ordered. The ‘Hangtown Fry’ consists of an oyster/bacon/scallion omelette, grits and ‘biscuit’ (American for scone). It was incredible – oysters work superbly in an omelette and the biscuit/grits ensure you’ll have enough stodge to make it through the day.

20120521-220239.jpg

Part way through a fantastic walk round three of San Francisco’s many hills I ducked into ‘Molinari’s’ to pick up lunch. It’s exactly what you think an Italian deli should be, family run, busy, loud and brash. The ‘luciano special’ sandwich was stunning, piles of Parma ham, buffalo mozzarella, sun dried tomatoes and lettuce all with a special sauce inside a fresh focaccia, then lightly toasted. It did not last long.

20120521-220228.jpg

I cooked dinner for my flatmate, a simple steak with salad and potatoes, but it did give me a chance to sample the best beef available to the average consumer in America. I’m partway through writing up a post on beef in general so I’ll hold off on that. Whole Foods also provided a stunning bottle of wine, Duckhorn’s Duck Hunt Zinfandel. I’ve sampled this before at ‘Marcus Wareing at the Berkley’, but at almost four times the price. It’s a great little drink and a perfect example of how refined a Zinfandel can be.

American Adventure – Update 1

This blog was intended to be about my cooking and restaurant exploits in London, however I’m going to stretch this definition to include my trip to America.

Day 1
The flight out was spectacular, clear skies over Iceland, Greenland, Washington and Oregon led to some spectacular views.

Once through immigration I headed into San Francisco to meet my host and have an explore. I really enjoyed looking round the Ferry Building, which is a kind of permanent farmer’s market, had some excellent Passsionfruit Sorbet. The weather was fantastic and I had time to scope out a couple of places I wanted to try out while I’m here.

Dinner was a great Sushi restaurant, everything was incredibly fresh and made at the bar in front of us. The eel/crab/avocado has got to be the best I’ve ever tasted.

Day 2
An early start saw us heading out of SF in our electric rental car, driving towards the vineyards of Sonoma. I’ve long been a fan of Ravenswood, their vintners blend and Lodi have been very popular in the UK for some time. Situated in the foothills, 30 minutes walk outside the centre of Sonoma, it’s a beautiful spot.

Ben and I did a wine blending course, choosing from the Zinfandel, Carignan and Petit Syrah to create a unique mix which would then be bottled. I went with a really big, thick tannic wine which is crying out for one of the Ginger Pig’s top steaks.

Following the session we sat on the veranda and tasted a whole slew of their wine. Their sweet moscato has got to be one of the nicest whites I’ve tried, very like a Pinot Blanc from Alsace. Their exclusive ‘Old Hill’, a mix of around 20 ancient varieties from one gnarled old vineyard, is stunning in it’s body and depth – one of the best wines I’ve ever tasted. Sadly it’s very difficult to buy in the UK!

Heading back into Sonoma, badly in need of lunch, we stopped at Maya’s, a great little Mexican place. Two enormous fish tacos later we were ready to hit the wine again and did a reserve tasting at Sebastiani, a much larger producer than Ravenswood.

After lounging by the pool we headed out for dinner at ‘The Girl and the Fig’, one of Sonoma’s top restaurants and a great example of Californian cuisine. There’s a heavy focus on locality, seasonality and simplicity, flavours are subtle and understated, very un-American!

Starter – Heirloom lettuce salad, with shoestring potatoes, radish, orange and caramelised pistachios.

20120520-130356.jpg

This was a triumph, light, airy and very fresh. The only way I’d tweak it would be to add a little goats cheese for tartness or some rocket for a bit of peppery fire.

Main – Slow cooked rabbit with seasonal vegetables and polenta

20120520-130407.jpg

Slow cooking rabbit makes for a deliciously tender meat with an intriguing flavour. Polenta is woefully underused in European cookery, here it’s a fantastic alternative to mashed potatoes. The dish did a lovely job of presenting the fresh clean flavours, though I think it would benefit from a little ‘flavour encapsulation’ – mini black pudding/smoked bacon lardons or chorizo. Small meaty bites.

The dessert was some great local cheese, with an interesting savoury strawberry jam. The whole meal was accompanied with some superb local wines, a viognier, a Grenache Blanc and a great Grenache blend.

Big Easy

While trying to track down a good American BBQ joint in London (suggestions welcome) I stumbled across a lot of rave reviews for ‘Big Easy’. Situated on the Kings Road it was very very close so I pulled up the menu, I had a table booked within about ten seconds.

The premise is very simple – American crabshack in Chelsea – and the decor reflects that. On a Sunday evening it’s busy and the gentle strains from the live band downstairs add to the atmosphere rather than drowning it out. There’s a small bar with a dazzling array of margaritas (my sister assures me the passion fruit is spectacular) and a strong lineup of bourbons.

The food is very American – big, bold, brash and un-apologetic. Starters include potato skins, crab claws and jumbo shrimp. Mains consist of seafood or a variety of items from the BBQ, with ribs being a specialty.

Feeling decadent I went for the large lobster deal – £20 gets you a fresh 2lb lobster, sauce, side salad and chips. The all important plastic bib is included too.

20120503-160405.jpg

The lobster was sublime – tender, buttery and helpfully laid out, with the minimum of demolition work needed to release the meaty goodness.

Throughout the evening the service was attentive and polite with courses arriving promptly despite the packed dining room. By 8pm there was a sizeable queue outside so booking is a must.

It was a great experience and I’ll definitely be going back – if only to attempt the enormous ribs and properly explore the very extensive wine list!

Restaurant Round Up #1

Hawksmoor

Easily one of my favourite restaurants in London, I visited again with a friend on Saturday evening. Sitting in the bar I ordered the plum pudding ribs, followed by a rib-eye with beef dripping chips and finished with a fab rhubarb and apple crumble. The ribs were enormous and the sauce sticky, rich and thick. Beautiful steak – the kind of thing you wait months for – the best chips (rich, floury and crisp) and superb wine. Top evening.

myalacarte

I popped in with some colleagues on Monday evening and was completely blown away. Situated just outside Reading in Caversham, in a converted shop, this is an utter gem. The food is seasonal and British with a delicate modern twist. It fully deserves its current status as the No.1 Tripadvisor restaurant in Reading.

Starter – Confit Duck Filo Parcel, Crispy Duck Tongues and a spring onion, carrot, kohlrabi salad with a ginger and soy dipping sauce
I’ve never had duck tongues before, but they were spectacular. A lovely complex starter with great textures and flavours – neat unfussy presentation!

Main – Duo of venison, confit butternut squash, salsify crisps and a chocolate jus
Venison and chocolate is almost a cliche, but they handled it beautifully, a rich sticky sauce without too much sweetness. The comparison between the haunch and knuckle of venison was clever and the vegetables delicate and light.

Dessert – Chocolate Fondant
Sadly the menu-promised salted parsnip ice cream wasnt available, but it was still a stonking dessert. Well cooked, liquid but warm, and neatly presented.

Great find and I can’t wait to visit again!