I’ve written already about the emergence of brunch as a social event in London. There’s something wonderfully civilised about going to a restaurant with your friends for breakfast – enjoying some good food and a chat and still having the rest of your weekend available. The perfect brunch should combine a varied menu – I’m beginning to come to terms with the fact that not everyone views a full English as a ‘light’ option – with a relaxed environment and a convenient location. Mel’s has all these things.

Situated on Garratt Lane – a stone’s throw from Earlsfield station and a leisurely walk from the shiny new base of Rob’s Food Blog – Mel’s is trendy, relaxed pub that opens it’s doors early for a variety of brunch based delights. The weather was gorgeous so they’re garden seating was much appreciated, there’s even a decent amount of shade for those of us who are prone to burning. They offer the usual range of coffees, juices and cocktails – the orange juice was nicely cold, though a little small, but the coffee was excellent if a little timid – if I’m heading out the door for breakfast I want something strong enough to jump start a hippo.

I went for their ‘Young American’ pancake stack – a pile of fluffy thick American pancakes, interspersed with bacon, sausage, tomato, mushrooms and topped with a fried egg. All drenched in maple syrup – obviously. It was heavenly – nicely cooked with good ingredients and the perfect way to start the day. My friends went for their fruit and nut stack and the baked eggs with potato and chorizo given the happy munching that ensued I think they enjoyed it. Service was prompt and the staff were very friendly – for brunch in nice surroundings it’s even reasonably priced.

On a sunny Saturday morning, there aren’t many places I’d rather be.

The world of haute cuisine is unashamedly stuffy. Sommeliers prowl among linen clad tables clutching wine lists thicker than dictionaries. Immaculately coiffured waiters glide serenely through extravagantly decorated rooms, explaining in hushed, reverential tones the provenance of course sixteen of the tasting menu. This is the world of the michelin star and the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants, culinary landmarks. So you can imagine the stir when a little pub in Marlow was handed two stars, easily ranking it among the top twenty eating experiences in the UK.

Set in a quiet little riverside village, around an hour outside London on the train, The Hand and Flowers is a shining example of all that’s wonderful with British food. Over the last eight years Tom Kerridge has honed and refined his vision of the perfect pub. There’s a bar with a great selection of real ales, the dining room is small, initimate and relaxed; and there’s ample parking with a lovely garden. That’s where the similarities with your local stop. Reservations are like hens teeth, for weekends and evenings they’re booked out six months in advance. The waiting staff are friendly and wonderfully efficient. The menu ranges from traditional pub fare (fish and chips) to the exotically gastronomic (whole baby truffle encroute – with foie gras). The wine list is a connoisseurs dream – several keenly priced bottles are available and the selection of ‘natural’ and biodynamic wines is second to none.

On a beautifully sunny April afternoon I made the trek out from London for a luxuriously late lunch. A gentle stroll through the picturesque village from the station was a great way to start the meal. We were greeted warmly and shown to our table in the centre of the small but perfectly formed dining room – it really does look like a normal, if rather nice, pub. The menu proved a real challenge though – I could have happily picked five or six starters and at least four mains. After much deliberation I went for the Duck and Foie Gras Parfait, followed by the Lamb Bun. My dining companion opted for the Blowtorched Scallops and the Venison.

While we waited, a lovely selection of breads was brought out with a funky vinewood butter bowl and knife. A lovely cone of whitebait also helped ease our hunger pangs.

Parfait of Duck and Foie Gras with Orange Chutney and Toasted Brioche.
The quenelle was beautifully executed – I snagged a small sample of the chilled parfait with the fork and was instantly rendered speechless. It was incredibly smooth and rich with a gorgeous ducky tang. Adding it to the brioche gave some lovely textural contrast and the sweet, fluffy bread worked really well with the rich parfait. The final flourish was the orange chutney – sticky, spicy and full of citrus flavours. Duck and orange is by no means inventive, but it works for a reason and i’ve never enjoyed the combination more. To create a dish where each element is executed perfectly is one thing – to make them all sing in unison is quite another.

Blowtorched Scottish Scallop with Warm Roast Chicken Bouillon,
Morels, Nasturtium and Apple.
This dish appeared on Masterchef: The Professionals and is deceptively clever. Cooking the scallops with a blowtorch helps prevent overcooking them while adding the lovely flavour of caramelised scallop. The warm chicken bouillon relies on a modern hydrocolloid to create a thick, warm gel. The flavours are matched and layered with real precision.

Essex Lamb “Bun” with Sweetbreads and Salsa Verde
This is another of Kerridge’s signature dishes – a beautifully presented bread/pastry sphere encases a protective caul-fat layer, cabbage, slow cooked lamb and sweetbreads and a final nugget of lamb in the centre. It’s a wonderful dish, I love the combination of sweetbreads with two different types of lamb and the salsa verde adds a really nice citrus note with just a delicate mustard hit.

Loin of Cotswold Venison, King Oyster Mushroom “Farci”, Blowtorched Gem Lettuce and Salt Baked Beetroot
The venison was immaculately cooked, the mushroom provided a lovely earthy note, the lettuce brought a smokey sweetness and the beetroot was sweetly divine. Venison is a great ingredient that doesn’t need embellishment – but if you’re going to do it, this is how. Every element helped support and show a different aspect of the flavour. Magic.

Hand and Flower Chips
Presented in a little copper pan – these are among the finest chips I have ever snaffled. Cylindrical, freakishly crispy and well seasoned.

I was initially concerned that we hadn’t ordered enough sides – but by the time we were done we were surprisingly full! With a dessert menu that tempting though – pudding was always going to happen.

Hand & Flowers Chocolate and Ale Cake with Salted Caramel and Muscovado Ice Cream
The immaculate cube of cake (with a lovely powdered coat) masks a salted caramel centre. The muscovado ice cream is inspired and adds a lovely nutty note. The dish was served with a small glass of strong beer which really helped bring out the flavours of the chocolate. It’s a cunning idea and one i’ll definitely be trying in future!

Banana Soufflé with Gingerbread Custard and Yoghurt Ice Cream
This souffle is nothing if not impressive – a towering edifice to culinary skill. They’ve managed to endow it with a deep banana flavour which marries well with the cinnamon spice of the custard. The texture is almost ethereal, but backed up by a lovely crunchy crumble on the top. Magnificent.

Conclusion
The Hand and Flowers is a fantastic experience – I adore restaurants that take an idea and polish it to perfection and this is the prime example. There is a daunting array of culinary skill on display and real care and thought taken with each element. They haven’t strayed from the pub format and the really relaxed, friendly environment and staff make it thoroughly enjoyable. The menu is reasonably priced for the ingredients and quality while the set menu represents incredible value – it’s the cheapest michelin starred food in Britain. My only criticism would be that it’s too far away and far too popular. Go – you won’t regret it.

Bubbledogs enjoyed one of the hottest restaurant openings of recent times. It’s spent the last few months floating around the top of the ‘talk of the town’ ratings and has generated a phenomenal buzz. When I turned up on a Tuesday evening, the substantial (90 minute) queue was testament to their success – but is there any fire beneath all the smoke?

Bubbledogs is on Charlotte Street, near Tottenham Court Road and Oxford Street. The restaurant is small, seating around 40 people. The decor is fun with sausage dog cartoons and a ‘warehouse crossed with a ski chalet’ feel.

Their concept is very simple – gourmet hot dogs and unusual, small producer, champagne. Hot dogs are available in a range of styles, and in beef or pork. There are only three sides and no desserts. Five or six champagnes are available by the glass and many more by the bottle.

I sampled the Buffalo Dog and the Fourth of July. The bun is wonderfully soft and the sausage nicely spiced if rather thin – I’d have preferred a bit more meat! The toppings were generous and really tasty, the flavour combinations working well with some great textural contrast. I particularly liked the blue cheese – it’s great with the sausage and something I fully intend to borrow. The sweet potato fries were delicious with a really nice crunch. I wasn’t impressed with the Potato Tots – they were just a bit bland.

The champagne was the real star. I sampled four glasses, all delicious and very different. They ranged from light and fruity to rich and mineraly. In terms of how they work with the hot dogs, I liked it from a ‘child’s fizzy drink’ perspective, it felt like a grown up take on lemonade at a barbecue. Given the level of spice in the food I’m not sure it gives the subtle flavours of the fizz a chance to shine, but it’s a really fun match nonetheless.

The service was faultless. The hostess on the door was great while we were queueing. Later on, inside, she recognised us as people who’d been waiting a while and took the time to talk to us.

I had a really great time – I’m not sure how long the concept will last, but I like restaurants that focus on one thing and do it well. They’ll face some real challenge when Five Guys finally open in London, but for now they’re pretty unique. I’d like to see more sides, more dips and bigger sausages. They are also very very busy – more locations would help ease the pressure and make getting a table easier. But if you can get there at at time when there isn’t a queue? It’s the perfect ‘fast food’.

Having visited Tonkotsu, Shoryu and even made my own, I finally managed to get to Bone Daddies. By far the least Asian of the ramen triumvirate, Bone Daddies is a hipster favourite. They play rock music, have funky menus and cocktails.

They offer a range of ramen, including the ever popular pork based tonkotsu and you can customise it with a dizzying array of toppings. I couldn’t turn down cock scratchings – who can?!

The broth was great, rich and decidedly thicker than the other two, without the fattiness of Tonkotsu’s. The noodles were average and to my mind slightly overcooked, the pork wasn’t great either – much chewier than the others. The egg, however, was sublime. Creamy yolk and nicely marinaded white. I also really liked the scratchings – they added some great texture.

So the conclusion if you’re in need of a ramen fix in London, where should you go? The answer isn’t simple – it depends what you want:

Noodles – 1. Shoryu, 2. Tonkotsu, 3. Bone Daddies

Stock – 1. Shoryu, 2. Bone Daddies, 3. Tonkotsu

Pork – 1. Tonkotsu, 2. Shoryu, 3. Bone Daddies

Extras – 1. Bone Daddies, 2. Shoryu, 3. Tonkotsu

Variety – 1. Shoryu, 2. Bone Daddies, 3. Tonkotsu

Authenticity – 1. Tonkotsu, 2. Shoryu, 3. Bone Daddies

In my mind Shoryu is probably the winner, with Tonkotsu and Bone Daddies a close second – depending on what’s important. Either way there’s three great restaurants to try. Get out there and slurp!