Food envy is a real problem that has not received enough coverage. How often have you finally taken a punt on the lamb dish only to watch the waiter waltz past with beefy nirvana destined for some smug diner on another table? When your own dish arrives it will inevitably be seasoned with regret and sadness – the piquant sauce of what might have been. All is not lost though, as the cunning Spaniards have hit on an excellent solution – order a load of individual small plates as and when you fancy them and if something delicious walks past, order some of that too. Tapas is genius.

Sadly, because of its popularity and ubiquity good tapas is very hard to find. In Barcelona you can stumble into any old dive – Tapas24 for instance – and have a phenomenal meal. In London it’s a little harder – there are big chains which do a reasonable job and independent tourist traps with laminated menus that commit horrendous crimes against food. There are a few gems – Brindisa do wonderful work and I have an unhealthy obsession with Little Taperia in Tooting (though please don’t go, it’s busy enough as it is You won’t like it. Honest.) A few months ago the ever reliable Jason Atherton (him of Pollen Street Social, Little Social, Social Eating House, lots of Socials…) opened a new joint behind Selfridges – Social Wine and Tapas.

The premise is simple – a short, focussed menu of tapa, blending traditional ingredients with modern interpretations. Patatas Bravas is served with a potato foam, sardines come with a citrus yoghurt. We adored the suckling pig – crisp crackling and achingly tender flesh with a wonderful charred pineapple chunk. It’s smart, fresh and executed with precision. The raw ingredients are superb – the jamon selection includes Iberico ham of such porky intensity that you can practically taste the happy grunts of the pig as it gorged on acorns.



Even the vegetable dishes are a delight – beetroot nestling happily next to lactic cheese and a gorgeous red wine jelly, charred carrots with a smokey aubergine puree – we didn’t find a bad dish. The desserts are equally good – a rich chocolate tart and a clever, moussey crème catalena.


The wine list is very extensive, covering all the major wine regions of the world. Importantly, there’s also around forty wines available by the glass, starting from just £4. They mix old favourites with newer discoveries – the txakoli is wonderful with fish. My pick though, is the house red from Pollen Street Social. I’ve had it before at Little Social and it’s still marvellous. A cabernet franc from Anjou in north-west France, it’s full of black bramble fruit and silky smooth tannins. A glass of that and the frankly tremendous suckling pig is a near perfect evening in itself. One of my favourite features is the ability to take a bottle home afterwards at retail (rather than restaurant) prices. I may have bought a magnum.

The décor is dark and sophisticated – with interesting bottles scattered around the walls. The staff are wonderfully polite and happy to describe the wines and offer tastes if you’re unsure. Being able to order as you fancy and pick reasonably priced wines to match is a great way to spend an evening. I’ll definitely be back, but in the mean time I have an enormous bottle of wine which needs enjoying.



Flesh and Buns is part of the
The premise is simple, there is a basic menu for £39 which gets you a cocktail on arrival, unlimited red/white/prosecco with your brunch, unlimited small dishes, a ‘signature’ flesh and buns, and a dessert to share. An extra £7 gets you access to pricier small dishes and flesh, while another £10 gets you unlimited champagne. There’s a two hour limit on the table to stop things getting out of hand, trust me when I say that’s plenty of time. While it might seem pricey – when you compare it to the cost of dinner here, it’s a steal.
To start we had a kimchi bloody mary – the tangy, fremented Korean cabbage adding a really nice kick to the brunch staple. The prosecco we then switched too is surprisingly good – light and not too dry. 
Opting to upgrade to the full menu we tried most of the small dishes. Korean fried wings were sticky, sharp and wonderfully crisp. Chicken yakitori was succulent and sweet. The fried squid came in popcorn sized bites and had a lovely crust. The real star was the softshell crab – the jalapeno mayo was just potent enough to match the crunchy crustacean and was promptly used for coating everything else on the table. The sushi is excellent quality for an ‘all you can eat’ option – the tuna being especially good.
For the ‘flesh’ course we tried the piglet belly and flat iron steak. The pork was a real masterpiece – crispy skin, fondant-soft meat and wonderfully seasoned. The big pillowy buns reminded me of
At this point – barely able to move and feeling the effects of around a bottle of prosecco each we tackled the dessert. “S’mores and chocolate fondant” may not sound much, but when the flaming charcoal brazier arrives at the table so you can toast your own marshmallows – it’s pretty special. Gooey, hot marshmallow, crunchy biscuits and sharp black chocolate is always going to be a winner. The fondant was beautifully made and came with a lovely ice cream – much needed after the lava-hot marshmallow.
Flesh and buns is by no means authentic – it’s London at it’s best: multi-cultural, cosmopolitan, brash, loud and a little bit decadent. If you’ve got a better way of spending a Sunday afternoon, I’d like to hear it! 

























































