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About robmcdonald49

Chef, Engineer, Kitchen Geek.

American Adventure – Update 2

Having finally made it back to San Francisco (via an unscheduled recharge in Sausalito) we set off in search of a light mobile lunch. The local store is Whole Foods. I admit that I have never ventured into their London store, but after having visited here I certainly will. Any shop that lets you make your own peanut butter, sells more flours than you can shake a baguette at and has every kind of Valrhona couverture available by weight is definitely worth a trip!

The evenings sustenance came courtesy of ‘Scoma’, one of San Francisco’s oldest restaurants and a waypoint on the tourist trail. Almost completely unchanged since the 1950’s, haute cuisine it is not. Compared with ‘The Girl and the Fig’ it offers a fascinating insight into where American cuisine has come from, and where it’s going.

Scoma sells seafood, the menu groans under the weight of fish, shellfish and every combination possible. To start I shared their platter, a mix of oysters, clams, prawns and crabs. All were fresh and delicious. The main was a fried mix of halibut, scallops and shrimp, served with a frankly odd side of pasta, rice and steamed veg.

Monday brought with it the chance to branch out on my own while my flat mate headed off to work – following the Lonely Planet, reinforced by his recommendation, I went for breakfast at ‘Brenda’s Soulfood’. On arrival the queue was reassuringly large but I was quickly seated by the friendly staff and the house special ordered. The ‘Hangtown Fry’ consists of an oyster/bacon/scallion omelette, grits and ‘biscuit’ (American for scone). It was incredible – oysters work superbly in an omelette and the biscuit/grits ensure you’ll have enough stodge to make it through the day.

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Part way through a fantastic walk round three of San Francisco’s many hills I ducked into ‘Molinari’s’ to pick up lunch. It’s exactly what you think an Italian deli should be, family run, busy, loud and brash. The ‘luciano special’ sandwich was stunning, piles of Parma ham, buffalo mozzarella, sun dried tomatoes and lettuce all with a special sauce inside a fresh focaccia, then lightly toasted. It did not last long.

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I cooked dinner for my flatmate, a simple steak with salad and potatoes, but it did give me a chance to sample the best beef available to the average consumer in America. I’m partway through writing up a post on beef in general so I’ll hold off on that. Whole Foods also provided a stunning bottle of wine, Duckhorn’s Duck Hunt Zinfandel. I’ve sampled this before at ‘Marcus Wareing at the Berkley’, but at almost four times the price. It’s a great little drink and a perfect example of how refined a Zinfandel can be.

American Adventure – Update 1

This blog was intended to be about my cooking and restaurant exploits in London, however I’m going to stretch this definition to include my trip to America.

Day 1
The flight out was spectacular, clear skies over Iceland, Greenland, Washington and Oregon led to some spectacular views.

Once through immigration I headed into San Francisco to meet my host and have an explore. I really enjoyed looking round the Ferry Building, which is a kind of permanent farmer’s market, had some excellent Passsionfruit Sorbet. The weather was fantastic and I had time to scope out a couple of places I wanted to try out while I’m here.

Dinner was a great Sushi restaurant, everything was incredibly fresh and made at the bar in front of us. The eel/crab/avocado has got to be the best I’ve ever tasted.

Day 2
An early start saw us heading out of SF in our electric rental car, driving towards the vineyards of Sonoma. I’ve long been a fan of Ravenswood, their vintners blend and Lodi have been very popular in the UK for some time. Situated in the foothills, 30 minutes walk outside the centre of Sonoma, it’s a beautiful spot.

Ben and I did a wine blending course, choosing from the Zinfandel, Carignan and Petit Syrah to create a unique mix which would then be bottled. I went with a really big, thick tannic wine which is crying out for one of the Ginger Pig’s top steaks.

Following the session we sat on the veranda and tasted a whole slew of their wine. Their sweet moscato has got to be one of the nicest whites I’ve tried, very like a Pinot Blanc from Alsace. Their exclusive ‘Old Hill’, a mix of around 20 ancient varieties from one gnarled old vineyard, is stunning in it’s body and depth – one of the best wines I’ve ever tasted. Sadly it’s very difficult to buy in the UK!

Heading back into Sonoma, badly in need of lunch, we stopped at Maya’s, a great little Mexican place. Two enormous fish tacos later we were ready to hit the wine again and did a reserve tasting at Sebastiani, a much larger producer than Ravenswood.

After lounging by the pool we headed out for dinner at ‘The Girl and the Fig’, one of Sonoma’s top restaurants and a great example of Californian cuisine. There’s a heavy focus on locality, seasonality and simplicity, flavours are subtle and understated, very un-American!

Starter – Heirloom lettuce salad, with shoestring potatoes, radish, orange and caramelised pistachios.

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This was a triumph, light, airy and very fresh. The only way I’d tweak it would be to add a little goats cheese for tartness or some rocket for a bit of peppery fire.

Main – Slow cooked rabbit with seasonal vegetables and polenta

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Slow cooking rabbit makes for a deliciously tender meat with an intriguing flavour. Polenta is woefully underused in European cookery, here it’s a fantastic alternative to mashed potatoes. The dish did a lovely job of presenting the fresh clean flavours, though I think it would benefit from a little ‘flavour encapsulation’ – mini black pudding/smoked bacon lardons or chorizo. Small meaty bites.

The dessert was some great local cheese, with an interesting savoury strawberry jam. The whole meal was accompanied with some superb local wines, a viognier, a Grenache Blanc and a great Grenache blend.

Bank Holiday Weekend

Jam
To celebrate the start of the British strawberry season I spent a happy Saturday cooking up some great strawberry jam. Pam Corden’s ‘River Cottage Handbook: Preserves’ is a great introduction to jams, pickles and chutneys. The result is great – rich, very fresh and extremely strawberry. Next time I think I’ll try and mix it up a bit – balsamic vinegar could add some real depth, as could a little black pepper. It would also be fun to see what using fructose did to the flavour.

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Fudge
I love sugar work – the variety of things you can do by carefully controlling the heat is fascinating. Everything from sugar ribbons, nests, cages and caramels are all separated by a few degrees. Having never attempted it before I decided to give fudge a shot.

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It turned out great, it’s very smooth and soft. I was very concerned about crystallisation and my Kenwood did a fantastic job of keeping the sugar crystals small. Next time I’ll crank up the salt and risk taking it a little hotter to firm it up. I had loads of chocolate laying around so I decided to have a shot at coating them – the temper wasn’t great, but I’m really pleased with what the bitterness has done to the sweet fudge.

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Big Easy

While trying to track down a good American BBQ joint in London (suggestions welcome) I stumbled across a lot of rave reviews for ‘Big Easy’. Situated on the Kings Road it was very very close so I pulled up the menu, I had a table booked within about ten seconds.

The premise is very simple – American crabshack in Chelsea – and the decor reflects that. On a Sunday evening it’s busy and the gentle strains from the live band downstairs add to the atmosphere rather than drowning it out. There’s a small bar with a dazzling array of margaritas (my sister assures me the passion fruit is spectacular) and a strong lineup of bourbons.

The food is very American – big, bold, brash and un-apologetic. Starters include potato skins, crab claws and jumbo shrimp. Mains consist of seafood or a variety of items from the BBQ, with ribs being a specialty.

Feeling decadent I went for the large lobster deal – £20 gets you a fresh 2lb lobster, sauce, side salad and chips. The all important plastic bib is included too.

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The lobster was sublime – tender, buttery and helpfully laid out, with the minimum of demolition work needed to release the meaty goodness.

Throughout the evening the service was attentive and polite with courses arriving promptly despite the packed dining room. By 8pm there was a sizeable queue outside so booking is a must.

It was a great experience and I’ll definitely be going back – if only to attempt the enormous ribs and properly explore the very extensive wine list!

Brownie x 3

In my final excursion into ‘Baked in America’, I went all out. With a trusty sous chef (a sister in need of a vast quantity of baked goods for work) I tackled three different brownies in one day. As ever the recipes were easy to follow and I love the way all the ingredients are measured three ways. The section on American-English conversions, for items like chocolate and flour, is worth the cover price on its own!

Top Tip – Sainsburys Belgian Cooking Chocolate is a great substitute for ‘semi-sweet chocolate’

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Left to right we have: Coffee and Walnut Blondies, Mile High and Snickers Brownie.

Snickers
Really nice result, the caramel could be a challenge if you’re not comfortable with sugar work, but it worked fine for me. My end result is very crunchy – next time I’ll use smooth peanut butter and bake it slightly less.

Mile High
One of my favourite from the shop – the mix of flapjack and chocolate is really nice. If anything this one is slightly under, the oats still have a bit of crunch,

Coffee and Walnut Blondie
Easily the best of the bunch, lovely texture and great flavour.

Restaurant Round Up #1

Hawksmoor

Easily one of my favourite restaurants in London, I visited again with a friend on Saturday evening. Sitting in the bar I ordered the plum pudding ribs, followed by a rib-eye with beef dripping chips and finished with a fab rhubarb and apple crumble. The ribs were enormous and the sauce sticky, rich and thick. Beautiful steak – the kind of thing you wait months for – the best chips (rich, floury and crisp) and superb wine. Top evening.

myalacarte

I popped in with some colleagues on Monday evening and was completely blown away. Situated just outside Reading in Caversham, in a converted shop, this is an utter gem. The food is seasonal and British with a delicate modern twist. It fully deserves its current status as the No.1 Tripadvisor restaurant in Reading.

Starter – Confit Duck Filo Parcel, Crispy Duck Tongues and a spring onion, carrot, kohlrabi salad with a ginger and soy dipping sauce
I’ve never had duck tongues before, but they were spectacular. A lovely complex starter with great textures and flavours – neat unfussy presentation!

Main – Duo of venison, confit butternut squash, salsify crisps and a chocolate jus
Venison and chocolate is almost a cliche, but they handled it beautifully, a rich sticky sauce without too much sweetness. The comparison between the haunch and knuckle of venison was clever and the vegetables delicate and light.

Dessert – Chocolate Fondant
Sadly the menu-promised salted parsnip ice cream wasnt available, but it was still a stonking dessert. Well cooked, liquid but warm, and neatly presented.

Great find and I can’t wait to visit again!

Frantic Food Week

At the weekend I ticked off another two recipes from ‘Baked in America’, Cherry Cheesecake Brownies and Maple/Oatmeal/Raisin cookies.

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The brownies were a big success, great texture and went down really well at work. In future I’d definitely soak the cherries in kirsch overnight. The cookies couldn’t be chilled (due to fridge space issues) so they didn’t have the right shape, but the texture and flavour is great. The icing was a bit soft so got smudged in transit.

Blackout Cake

As this weekend is a joint family birthday/Easter celebration, I decided that a serious cake was in order. Casting around for a suitably epic recipe, I went with another one from ‘Baked in America’ – Blackout cake. It took a long time, industrial quantities of cocoa powder, but it’s done!

Provided it survives the journey home in one piece, I’ll post up a taste test and a sliced view! Early ‘quality checks’ are very promising.

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Update

Having brought it home safely (Cake carriers are marvellous) we got stuck into it this evening. It worked great, chocolatey and rich, exactly as billed. If I did it again I would slightly increase the amount of frosting, and possibly mix some white chocolate chips in with the crumbs to lighten the colour a bit.

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Oatmeal and Raisin Whoopie Pies

Today’s baking adventure was an ‘Oatmeal and Raisin Whoopie Pie’, with the recipe provided by the lovely people from Outsider Tart. Their shop in Turnham Green and cookbook “Baked in America” are both fantastic.

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The pies taste great, but didn’t rise as much as I’d hoped. The second batch, which had been chilled in the fridge for two hours, rose slightly better but still wasn’t perfect. Definitely needs more work!

‘Ben’s Cookies’ do a fantastic oatmeal and raisin cookie with a lovely rich, doughy texture. Definitely something to aim for!