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About robmcdonald49

Chef, Engineer, Kitchen Geek.

Fish and Floating Islands

Having splashed out on some shiny new boning/skinning knives I was really keen to give them a try. I’ve also wanted to sample turbot, now that Sainsburys has started selling the farmed type from Spain. Having two great friends round for dinner was the perfect opportunity!

Turbot in Red Wine
This is a Gordon Ramsay recipe, and has apparently been a mainstay of his Hospital Road restaurant menu. Fish in red wine is a difficult combination, so using a ‘meaty’ fish like turbot and a soft fruity red like Beaujolais helps bridge the gap.

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Turbot is a large flat fish, so you attack it very like sole, due to the thicker skin you can’t just peel it off, it needs to be skinned like salmon.

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Once you’ve got the fillets, you gently poach them in a reduced red wine sauce and serve it with some rich mashed potato, wilted baby gem lettuce and whatever veg fits your mood.

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The taste is great – I could have reduced the sauce a tad more, and thicker fillets would help, but larger turbots get exponentially more expensive. With a smaller portion it would be a fantastic fish course and easily stand up to a beefy meat course.

Ile Flotante
A kind colleague gave me some of his home-grown eggs so I decided to do something egg based to show them off – thanks Kim! ‘Floating Islands’ are a classic French dessert consisting of poached meringues and thin ‘crime anglaise’ egg custard, drizzled with a caramel.

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The result is a light, delicate, faintly eggy dessert. It worked really well, despite me overfilling the pan while poaching and making the custard very thin. As part of a larger meal I’d go for much smaller portions and swap the caramel for a salted caramel sauce and – at the genius suggestion of another friend – freshly toasted almonds.

Saturday Sole Veronique

Sole Veronique is a French classic. It’s a very simple dish, but the amount of fiddling in the prep can put some people off! Tarragon is the central flavour and it’s beautiful with the delicate white fish.

Filleting flat fish can be tricky, but with practice you’ll soon get the hang of it and it’s very satisfying to be able to do it yourself! You’ll also need to skin the grapes, this can be a daunting task, but if you pop them in boiling water for about 90 seconds, they’ll slip out of their skins.

I like serving the grapes chilled – it adds a lovely contrast with the warm fish and rich sauce. I served it with some crushed new potatoes (I added plenty of tarragon to help tie them to the white sauce and a splash of vinegar for acidity).

The flavour combinations work so well it would be fun to try and deconstruct the dish a little. Serve the rolls of sole on top of a pomme fondant with a white wine and tarragon foam and a grape jelly?

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Sunday was Baking

The weather this weekend has been insanely hot, 32°C in my kitchen, which makes baking pretty difficult, chocolate won’t set properly and pastry is a complete nightmare, but undeterred I made full use of the time.

Foodie Festival – Battersea Park
When the weather is sunny, whats the logical thing to do? Sit in the park drinking cocktails munching on great produce. Foodie Festivals are run all over the country and the showcase local produce and run demonstrations from top chefs.

Clare Smyth
Clare has a pretty spectacular CV, with stints at Louis XV, The Fat Duck, The Waterside, The French Laundry and her current job, Head Chef of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. She is one of only a handful of 3* female chefs and the only one in the UK.

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She gave a fantastic demonstration of one of her dishes from Royal Hospital Road – Suckling Pig. You start with an entire suckling pig (at which point the couple next to me walked out – bless their little veggie socks) which is then presented five ways:

Sausage – From the shoulder and belly
Loin – Simply pan fried
Head and Feet – poached inside a savoy cabbage leaf
Ham – A miniature ham from the leg, cured and served with a miniature pineapple.
Pork Belly – Cooked sous-vide and then crisped

Thats quite a lot of work, but she didn’t tackle it solo, three sous chefs helped and it was amazing to see them go from pig to plate inside 40 minutes – great stuff.

The Food
I ate a variety of different dishes from the various stalls:
Llama Sausage – Surprisingly beefy with a subtle gamey note. Very nice!
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Argentinian Steak Sandwich – Barbecue is a South American institution and these friendly chaps where cooking up half a cow, using layered racks to beautifully cook great chunks of beef, it was stunningly tender and beautifully smokey.

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Moules Frites – The Mussel Men are making a bid to bring back mussels as a British staple, serving up simple, delicious fast food. Very very tasty!

Weird Baking
Strange flavour combinations are all the rage in modern cooking and it’s starting to trickle down to simple things like cupcakes. Keen to get in on the craze I tried two ‘unusual’ recipes this weekend:

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Elvis Whoopie Pies
The King is famous for his rock music, but also for his famous favourite flavour combination: banana, peanut and bacon. Most people look at that and shiver – but was Elvis on to something?

It’s a simple Whoopie recipe, with banana added to the base. A peanut butter frosting filling, crispy bacon pieces and a drizzle of honey make for a fascinating cake. The flavours balance much more subtley than you’d expect it’s very savoury, the banana blending behind the peanut butter which accentuates the salty bacon, the honey lifting it all a touch. Weirdly good.

Choco-Crisp-Caramel Cupcakes
Salt/sweet is an established thing – salted caramel is everywhere these days. Texture combinations are very important, but often lacking from cupcakes. Cupcakes are soft and sweet, what crunchy and salty? Crisps – obviously. I baked up a batch of milky chocolate cupcakes, frosted them with a bitter chocolate ganache and stuffed crisps in the top. Then simply drizzle over a salted caramel sauce – I made mine very dark, next time I’ll take it off the heat earlier.

Steak, Swordfish and Cinnamon

It was a pretty quiet weekend from a food point of view, too much sport to watch!

Carpetbag Steak
My sister often claims this is her favourite dish, so as a special treat I rustled it up. I’ve never seen it on a menu anywhere, and only learnt of it from a South African boss at a previous job. The origin of the dish is a bit murky, some people claim its Australian, others South African, but either way it’s delicious. Steak and Oysters are a classic British combination, certainly during the Georgian period, so it seems only logical to grab a nice thick steak, hollow out a pocket and fill it with oysters before sealing it back up with a cocktail stick. As the steak cooks, the rich, creamy seafood flavour permeates the steak. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.

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Cinnamon Loaf

I’ve got a bit of a thing for cinnamon buns, Chelsea buns, basically anything in the baked cinnamon genre. Fitzbillies in Cambridge sets the bar for sticky cinnamon goodness, but occasionally you need something that doesn’t need a secret recipe and several rises. This recipe, from the lovely people at Outsider Tart, provides the same hit in a little under an hour.

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The result is a lovely cakey slice that is just begging for a nice strong coffee and a lazy afternoon.

Swordfish, Monkfish, Tuna
When your fishmonger runs out of enough swordfish to feed two people what do you do? Buy his sole remaining piece (pun intended) as well as some great tuna and a lovely monkfish tail. Normally attempting three fish would be suicide, trying to get them to fry evenly without overlooking is just impossible. With sous vide it’s very easy, dump them all in the water bath, give them 30 seconds to colour in a hot pan and enjoy the results! I’ve never tried a medley like this before and it’s very effective, it accentuates the differences between each fish and gives them a real chance to shine – try it sometime!

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Bangers, Brownies and Beaujolais

Having thoroughly enjoyed making sausages for the BBQ I decided to have another go, though with a more traditional method.

Sausages
My previous attempt used a kit from Lakeland, with dried beef casings and a premixed seasoning/filler. This time I wanted to use traditional natural hog casings and an organic breadcrumb filler.

The natural casings came pre-spooled and just need a little rinsing before threading them onto the sausage stuffer, they’re far more flexible than the Lakeland ones and stuffing went much smoother. I got the filling and spices from Weschenfelder, whose ‘Gold’ mix is gorgeous, lots of nutmeg and sage. I used a dried organic breadcrumb filler which gave a beautiful moist texture.

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I decided to just fry them rather than giving them a spell in the sous vide or poaching them first. The skins held together really well and browned in to a far crispier texture than the beef casings. The result was great, porky, rich and with a subtle savoury hint. Next time I’m going to try some more interesting flavours – pork and apple beckons.

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Sausage Rolls
I made a large mix of sausage meat so I decided to make some rolls as well. Having never made puff pastry from scratch I thought it would be fun to try making it from scratch. The results are great, a lovely light savoury pastry with a yummy moist filling.

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The Sampler
A colleague told me about this fantastic little place just behind South Kensington tube station. It’s a pretty comprehensive wine merchant, with an excellent champagne selection, but the real selling point? Wine vending machines. You get a little card which you can charge up and then use to sample around 80 wines which rotate every couple of weeks. It’s a great chance to try some more unusual wines and sample some very expensive ones. I was delighted to discover they had a coupe of vintages from one of my favourite producers – Domaine de Pegau, its very hard to find! They also offer swanky nibbles and a cheese board – ill definitely be back to sample that!

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Brownies

The perfect brownie is a bit of a minefield – some people like it dense and cakey, others want an airy sponge and thick rich fudge is also popular. I’ve done several recipes recently but my sister said I had to try these.

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It’s a Good Housekeeping recipe, which really takes the ratios to the extreme – 550g of dark chocolate to 75g of flour. It’s pretty dense! Judging when it’s cooked is very difficult, it’s forms a thin crust very quickly so you need to keep prodding it with a knife to double check. The verdict?

Fab – really really good. I like a little more ‘cake’ to it, but this is an excellent recipe if you want something slightly airier!

Sous Vide BBQ

Summer!

With the weather finally improving – it was definitely time to fire up the bbq. I’ve been looking forward to doing some sous vide barbecue for ages. Everyone’s suffered burnt, dry drumsticks or dangerously pink chicken thighs. Combining sous vide precision with a BBQ’s intense heat and smokiness is a great combination. With all the food below I’m cooking it until done with the sous vide, then browning it on the barbecue.

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To Sauce or Not To Sauce?

Sticky rich marinades are a key part of a good barbecue, but the difficulty comes in whether or not you include them in the sous vide bag. Heston Blumenthal did some research looking at how marinades soak through chicken, using an MRI to check the progress. The downside to sous vide with marinades that you risk losing some of the flavour as it will dissolve into the sauce, which may not be eaten. In the interests of research I tried both options, and the winner is? Hard to say really – very little difference. Next time out I’ll examine what happens if you marinade before sous vide.

Sausages

I love sausages – there’s something deeply satisfying about a good banger and some fluffy mash. With shop-bought sausages there’s always some concern over what pork cuts have gone into it and how well the pigs were looked after. The logical solution? Make them yourself. Sausages are surprisingly complex and to get a good texture requires you to add the correct seasonings and the right ratio of rusk/breadcrumbs. While a 100% meat sausage is a nice idea, they end up very dense with an odd mouthfeel. I used a kit from Lakeland to provide the casings and seasoning mix and then some great Blythburgh pork (a mixture of 80% shoulder and 20% belly) for the filling. They had a lovely, quite delicate flavour, the texture was great, but the casings weren’t as durable as I’d hope, a couple didn’t survive the water bath. Next time I’ll try natural hog.

72 Hour Short Ribs

Short ribs are a little unusual in the UK, but very popular in America. In England beef ribs tend to be quite stringy and aneamic – you end up with a thin layer of meet over a very long bone. Short ribs should have at least an inch of thick, flavourful meat over a small bone the size of a business card. The downside to this is that it can end up very tough – the solution? Low, slow cooking, ideally in a sous vide. Because of the huge amount of connective tissue in the meat it needs to cook for a very long time – 3 days is about the optimum.

With a degree of trepidation, I dutifully setup my sous vide, carefully sealed the top to stop evaporation losses and cooked away for three days before coating them in barbecue sauce and blitzing them on a red hot barbecue – the result? Amazing. The texture was incredibly soft, almost mousse like. The meat fell off the bone, leaving it completely clean. The slow cooking brought out the mineral flavour of the meat. Next time out I’ll ease off the seasonings and add something to bring out the sweetness of the meat.

Burgers

I’ve done burgers twice so far on this blog, so I won’t go into a lot of detail, apart from mentioning the mix that I used: 50% Sirloin, 25% Chuck, 25% Brisket. Very similar to the peerless ShakeShack burger and Heston’s own recipe. It created a much beefier flavour than my previous attempts, though the burgers were very fragile, I need to wrap them tighter next time.

Peri Peri Chicken
Surprisingly the star of the show – chicken works so well in sous vide and the tenderness and moisture is completely unexpected in a BBQ. The thighs worked much better than I expected and the meat delicately flavoured, the marinade worked well, but I’ve definitely seen it go further in.

Pizza and Cinnamon Rolls

Perfect Pizza

One of the books on food i’ve enjoyed most over the last couple of months has been ‘Heston Blumenthal – In Search of Total Pefection’. It combines his two series looking for the best possible version of several classic dishes. The recipes occasionally use unusual ingredients, but tend to steer clear of specialist equipment (no sous vide or centrifuges needed). I’ve dabbled with the burger recipe before, but the first one i’m following end to end is the pizza.

Heston’s idea of a perfect pizza is a simple Neapolitan-style margarita – a tomato sauce, smeared over a thin, crisp base with mozzarella on top.

The Base

The dough is made in two stages, an initial pre-ferment and a final double raise. You make a small batch of dough one day in advance, then make the ‘final batch’ using that pre-ferment as a starter. 00 Grade pasta flour is used to get a really high protein content while keeping a light texture and malt syrup (available from health food shops) is used to boost the sugar content evenly. The dough is left to rise in the fridge so it genereates a lovely sourdough style flavour before being punched down and raised a second time.

The Sauce

The tomato sauce is made from really ripe cherry tomatoes – skinning 45 small tomatoes is a bit of a chore, but the resulting reduction is gorgeous – nothing is added, it’s just pure tomato.

The Toppings

Oven dried tomatoes (dried with garlic, bay, thyme, basil and a little sugar) add individual bursts of intense tomato sweetness, a perfect example of Heston’s flavour encapsulation. Buffalo mozzarella adds a gorgeous creamy contrast and smoked sea salt, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil finish it off beautifully.

The Cooking

The real magic is the way it’s cooked. Heating a large iron/carbon steel frying pan over a hob over a very high heat for at least 15 minutes means it’s smoking hot. You then flip it over and place it under a grill, also set to high, as close to the element as possible. Leaving it for another few minutes reaches a peak temperature far hotter than a domestic oven. Carefully sliding the pizza inbetween cooks it in around 90-120 seconds and results in a beautifully light puffy crust with a gentle char. Perfect.

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Cinnamon Rolls

I’ve always loved making bread dough – there’s something deeply satisfying about watching it rise happily and the smell is incredible. After seeing several good recipes for American style ‘cinnamon rolls’ I decided to have a crack.

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The texture is lovely – fresh out the oven it was warm and pillowy. The smell as it cooked was incredible. I’m not sure how well they age – I didn’t have enough icing sugar on hand to glaze them there and then, so I had to put them in a Tupperware overnight. The days after they were slightly firmer, but still yum. It’ll be interesting to see what people at work think of them tomorrow – fingers crossed!

Blueberries and Burgers

Blueberry Traybake
With a glut of British blueberries in the supermarket I decided to whip up a batch of something yummy mid-week. Both Serious Eats and Outsider Tart had recipes for an American style ‘coffee cake’ using blueberries. (Erroneously named – no coffee in sight, the idea is that it’s consumed with coffee). I combined the two and this is the result!

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The cake mix has a sour cream base – this works beautifully with the sweetness of the blueberries and gives it a creamy lightness. The ‘streusel’ on top adds a light crunch and stops it becoming too bland. The touch of cinnamon makes the cake smell amazing. The only thing I’d change is to coat the blueberries in flour to stop them sinking so much.

Home-made Sous Vide Burger
With a barbecue pending next weekend, I was keen to sort out a really good burger – I got out the mincer attachment and made a mix that was mostly chuck steak, with a bit of ribeye thrown in. I aligned the strands, Heston style, sliced off the burger shapes and cooked it for 2 hours at 52 degrees before searing it. I made a ‘Fake Shack’ sauce, which is just mayo, mustard, tomato, gherkin, Tabasco, garlic salt and paprika. The result was amazing – really beefy, very moist and slightly crunchy from the sear. Next time out I’ll use a slightly different cut to add more fat – brisket has a lot of potential!

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Quiet Weekend

Onion Marmalade

It’s no secret that I love cheese – one of my favourites things about Christmas is a good excuse for a truly outrageous cheese board. Good crackers are important, but the final part of the wonderful cheesy trinity is condiments. Chutneys, pickles, jams, fruit cheeses and onion marmalade.

Having always had a serious weak spot for onion marmalade (it’s incredible with a super stong cheddar like Montgomery) so having neglected my preserving pan for a month or two I decided to have a shot at it.

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It was a surprising amount of work – peeling a chopping around 25 onions takes a while! The reduction in volume is incredible, from a full pan of raw onions to the thin layer of deliciousness that was left at the end. The flavour is gorgeous – exactly what I was after. I could have happily eaten the entire batch out of the pan with a spoon. It only really filled three large-ish jars, so I’ll definitely need to make another batch when I’ve got some swankier glassware!

Sous Vide Salmon, Crushed New Potatoes, Bois Boudran Sauce

This is a Heston recipe and a great showcase of how something quite simple – fish, potatoes and tomato sauce – can be tarted up beautifully. The sauce is gorgeous, a kind of tomato relish that packs a real umami punch, I’m looking forward to using up the left overs! It was the first time I did a meal for several people with my sous vide and it worked beautifully. Timing everything was much easier and being able to use just a couple of frying pans for browning the finished products really kept the washing up down. Result!

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Gin poached Venison
Venison and juniper berries is a classic combo – one of the major ‘botanicals’ in gin is juniper, so surely it’s a logical combo? After a bit of snooping I couldn’t find anyone else trying it in a sous vide, so I’m claiming this one as a ‘Rob original’.

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Obviously, without a sous vide this would be rather expensive and wasteful – with one it needed just 50ml of Hendricks to cover the meat. I drew a blank at Borough market when I went in search of venison, so I had to settle for Springbok…. it’s pretty close!

The flavour was gorgeous – very subtle and not as bitter as I’d feared. It just needs a little sweet acidity (lemon mayo?) and it would be away.

Sous Vide Spectacular

Well I’ve had my setup for almost a week now and it’s been hard at work. I’ve done a great mix of foods, most very simple, trying to highlight what makes it different to conventional cooking methods.

Poached Egg
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Slow poached eggs have been around for centuries and are very common in Japan. The texture is very different to a normal poached egg. The white is very soft and velvety, the yolk creamey and light. But the best bit is the presentation. You serve your guests the egg – still in it’s shell – which they then break over the salad/toast/scallops and out slides a perfectly cooked poached egg. It’s a brilliant party trick.

Salmon
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Fish is a really popular sous vide dish as it’s so hard to cook perfectly. All the guesswork is taken out, you pick your temperature and put it in. A few minutes later you have a beautiful piece of fish that just needs a quick brown (with a blowtorch or ripping hot pan). The texture is very different – soft, fudgey and delicious.

Chicken
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Everyone who I’ve spoken to about sous vide has said I need to try chicken. Everyone’s had the same dry chewy disasters before – sous vide chicken is out of this world. Freakishly moist and tender it blows away anything else I’ve tried. Brilliant stuff.

Scallops
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The scallops were good – not incredible – just very nice. There’s two methods and I went for the quick (60C for 10 minutes rather than 50C for 45mins or 40C for two hours) I’ll experiment with a different one in future.

Duck

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The duck was an absolute winner, the sous vide created a very soft texture, deeply ducky flavour and rendered the fat beautifully. A few seconds in a red hot pan crisped the skin and a quick sauce made with the juices from the bag finished it off perfectly.

Scrambled Eggs

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One of Hestons recipes, this was a very easy breakfast. Because its all cooked in a disposable bag, there’s no washing up – just break the eggs, milk, cream and seasoning into a bag, moosh it around and cook for 15 minutes before pouring onto a plate. Simple! The texture is very smooth, almost custardy.

Cod

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Another recipe from Heston – the cod cooks very soft, making neat plating a nightmare. Next time I’ll use a cranked spatula! The texture is lovely, far smoother than you’d expect and the sous vide takes all the guesswork out – its almost impossible to overcook it!

Steak

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This is the big one. I love steak. I’ve eaten steaks all over the place and I’m very particular. The sous vide should allow me to perfectly cook very thick steaks before quickly searing them in a red hot plan. How does practice match up to theory? Superbly. One of the juiciest steaks I’ve ever eaten – perfectly cooked. If anything, 54°C is a tad to warm, I’ll try 52°C next time.

Pears

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One of the few areas where sous vide is underused, desserts are still pretty experimental! The poached pears were delicious, the sauce is sugar, honey and vanilla, I was a bit worried about the quantity if vanilla but it actually works really well. Next time out I’ll go for some alcohol too – whisky/brandy would be amazing.

Burgers

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A lot of internet sites rave about sous vide burgers – I was keen to give it a try! I used some bog standard burgers from the supermarket, and the results were very promising. The paleness is a little off putting, it needs a very very hot pan. I also had the water a little warm, I’ll go for 54°C next time. Even so – it was incredibly juicy, great barbecue potential!

Pork Belly

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This is the longest recipe I’ve cooked (outside brewing/fermenting). A 24 hour salt/sugar/herb cure. 30ish hours in the water bath. The result? Amazing – rich porky taste, the aromatics did a great job on the inside, the texture was lovely – not too soft. To get some texture on the skin you have to essentially deep fry it – putting a big joint like that into a wok of hot oil is an experience!

Carrots

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Carrots are always amazing when they’re not boiled – the flavour molecules are soluble in water, so boiling is not a great idea. These were awesome straight out the bag, but a quick glaze in a hot pan transformed them. Fantastic side dish.

Conclusion
As you can see, I’ve been quite busy! The sous vide is an amazing tool, but like any it needs to be used properly. There’ll always be a place for a quick fried steak. But certainly if you’re entertaining, it takes out a lot of the stress and offers some huge benefits.

When I get a chance I’d like to try cooking some more unusual items – I think game would be amazing. I also want to try poaching in unusual/expensive liquids. Chicken poached in truffle oil? Steak poached in whisky? Yum.