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About robmcdonald49

Chef, Engineer, Kitchen Geek.

Cookhouse Joe

There’s something strangely comforting about roast chicken. It evokes memories of family meals and lazy afternoons. It’s not just a british tradition either – the French know the value of a good rotisserie and so, it turns out, do the Lebanese.

Within spitting difference of Oxford Street there’s a bold newcomer to the Soho restaurant scene. Cookhouse Joe is run by the same people as Soho Joe and it follows a similar vein – great quality, simple dishes, fun atmosphere and excellent value.

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The meal started with some lovely pickles while we looked over the menu before deciding to eat, well, everything. First up was a moutabal – smokey grilled aubergine paste with some lovely warm flatbreads. Sweet, smooth and very more-ish.

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Fresh off the grill – some gorgeous halloumi came next. I’m not normally a fan, but this was really good with a lovely char. Closely followed by some sticky chicken wings and a delicious lamb kofta – I adored the tabbouleh: light, fresh and wonderfully delicate. Perfect.

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Some home-made falafels and tahini followed – well cooked and with a lovely spice. But it was all a build up to the main event. Superb roast chicken (free range from the west country you’ll be happy to hear). Plump, juicy and with a lovely skin it’s everything a roasted chicken should be. It comes with a choice of three sauces – lovely tomatoey chilli, garlic mayo or a cucumber/mint. The chips were fine but could do with more spice, but the coleslaw is great.

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At this point I admit we were struggling – but i’m a complete sucker for anything with apple and I couldn’t turn down the chance for their home-made apple pie. It’s literally made by the owners mother and the dear woman knows what she’s doing. Rich, crumbly pastry generously filled with sweet caramelised apples and just a hint of cinnamon. Heaven.

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The restaurant is new – they’ve only been open five weeks – but the service was excellent, the decor is your classic exposed brick warehouse and vintage wood (they get bonus points for using an old coffee tin as a wine cooler). They’re clearly passionate about their concept and it works – my only criticism would be the volume of flatbreads and the lack of a simple set menu – when the variety is so good having an easy ‘bring me lots’ option is the obvious choice.

The food was delicious and perfect for sharing. I applaud them for making nearly everything themselves – it’s food with real soul. Grab some mates, bag a table and munch on some top grub in a great location without breaking the bank.

Disclaimer: I was invited by Cookhouse Joe and comped the meal.
Cookhouse Joe on Urbanspoon

Bodeans

For many people barbecue conjures up images of their Dad incinerating a frozen chicken leg under an umbrella during a typically damp English summer. For Americans, barbecue is one of the most distinctive and well-loved elements of their food heritage. Styles vary wildly but at its heart it’s about good meat, slow cooking and delicious sauces. Bodeans was one of the first restaurants to bring a real taste of this to London and it had a hand in creating the current craze for pulled pork. But with the arrival of ‘serious’ barbecue places last year (Pitt Cue Co/John Salt) and their ‘gentrification’ (see Barbecoa) – is there still space for a cheaper, simpler alternative?

Bodeans have a number of outlets, most of which operate a walk-in only policy. Their Soho branch is spread over two floors, a deli/bar at ground level and a basement sit down restaurant. The décor is Americana and mimics a sports bar. TV screens show baseball and ice hockey while music is at a reasonable level – it’s a fun and relaxed environment.

The menu is a meat eaters paradise – this is not one for the rabbit food brigade. I’ve sampled a few of their dishes before (and even taken advantage of their ‘click and collect’ BBQ lunches) but this was the first time I’ve tackled the entire selection in one go. Their ‘Boss Hog Platter’ is great value and gives you short ribs, spare ribs, baby back ribs, chicken thighs, smoked sausages, burnt ends and pulled pork – with coleslaw and chips on the side. A selection of sauces (the hot chipotle is excellent) is on the table along with much needed kitchen towel.

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Overall the food is good – it’s not up to the standard of John Salt or Pitt Cue Co, but it’s not trying to be. It’s simple, tasty cooking with generous portions. I’ve have liked more sauce to be applied in the kitchen, taken on its own the beef rib and the pulled pork were a tad dry, but you can fix that yourself very easily. They could also make more of the provence of their food – London is bursting at the seams with great suppliers. They offer a few desserts – ice cream and cheesecakes, but I’m a sucker for a decent milkshake.

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They’re nicely thick and the ice-cream base is good quality – my only request would be to offer an alcoholic version!

If you’re looking for big piles of meat with delicious sauce and sides – you can’t go far wrong. It’s relaxed fun and a great way to spend an evening with your mates while trying to figure out how baseball works.

Bodean's on Urbanspoon

 

 

Mel’s

I’ve written already about the emergence of brunch as a social event in London. There’s something wonderfully civilised about going to a restaurant with your friends for breakfast – enjoying some good food and a chat and still having the rest of your weekend available. The perfect brunch should combine a varied menu – I’m beginning to come to terms with the fact that not everyone views a full English as a ‘light’ option – with a relaxed environment and a convenient location. Mel’s has all these things.

Situated on Garratt Lane – a stone’s throw from Earlsfield station and a leisurely walk from the shiny new base of Rob’s Food Blog – Mel’s is trendy, relaxed pub that opens it’s doors early for a variety of brunch based delights. The weather was gorgeous so they’re garden seating was much appreciated, there’s even a decent amount of shade for those of us who are prone to burning. They offer the usual range of coffees, juices and cocktails – the orange juice was nicely cold, though a little small, but the coffee was excellent if a little timid – if I’m heading out the door for breakfast I want something strong enough to jump start a hippo.

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I went for their ‘Young American’ pancake stack – a pile of fluffy thick American pancakes, interspersed with bacon, sausage, tomato, mushrooms and topped with a fried egg. All drenched in maple syrup – obviously. It was heavenly – nicely cooked with good ingredients and the perfect way to start the day. My friends went for their fruit and nut stack and the baked eggs with potato and chorizo given the happy munching that ensued I think they enjoyed it. Service was prompt and the staff were very friendly – for brunch in nice surroundings it’s even reasonably priced.

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On a sunny Saturday morning, there aren’t many places I’d rather be.

Mels Cafe and Bar on Urbanspoon

Kitchen Updates

I haven’t posted my own cooking for a while, but my kitchen’s certainly not been neglected. Over the last few weeks I’ve been hard playing around with all sorts of things.

Deb Perelman’s Granola

No morning is complete without it now – I must be on my fourth or fifth batch. This latest one switches the british version’s golden syrup for the orginal’s maple syrup (and a vast improvement it is too). I also increased the fruit content slightly, adding in morello cherries, sultanas, dried blueberries and dried figs. Bliss.

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Pigeon and Puy Lentils

I’ve not really played around with lentils much. Pigeon and peas is a classic french combination, but I find the peas too sweet and the texture slightly too smooth. In pursuit of a rich, earthy dish I went with Puy Lentils cooked in some home-made chicken stock and some fantastic bacon. The result was really nice – the asparagus adds some freshness and cooking the lentils carefully gives it the right body. While I did it as a main course I think it would work better as a starter – the perfect build up to a rich beefy main.

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Blackout Cake

This is probably my favourite chocolate cake, the recipe comes from the ever-reliable Outsider Tart.

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Simnel Cake

I did this for Easter – it’s a very traditional English cake which you just down see any more. Take a standard fruit (or Dundee) cake, up the spice level and bake it with a layer of marzipan in the middle. Then top with another disc of marizpan, eleven marzipan balls (for the disciples who survived holy week) and cover with an egg white glaze which is then browned under the grill. I think eleven balls is a little mean so opt for the more generous thirteen.

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Fast Food

I’ve been working pretty hard over the last few weeks which makes cooking in the evening a bit of a chore. I’m also trying to be healthy – honest! With this in mind i’ve started doing a number of really quick mid-week meals. Having some nice home-made tomato sauce in the freezer I cooked off some store-bough fresh pasta, nuked a steak in my griddle pan and had a fantastic, filling plate of food ready in under twenty minutes.

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Chocolate Cookies

I had some industrial quantities of chocolate that needed using up, so what better way than cookies? This is the chewy recipe from ‘The New Best Recipe’ – an American Encyclopaedia of food. I went with four different kinds of chocolate (100% powder, 70% dark, 40% milk and white). Heavenly.

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Speedy Lunch

In need of some inspiration on the bank holiday weekend I popped down to the Tachbrook Street market and bought lunch. I pan-fried the mackrel, blow-torched the baby-gems and grilled the tomatoes before dropping it all on top of some lovely fresh sourdough with a squeeze of lime. Lunch in under fifteen minutes – delicious!
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Pizza
I’m still working on my perfect pizza – this is the latest incarnation. The base is good – crispy and it puffs nicely. The only downside is that the dough structure is quite dense and I didn’t get enough char on the bottom. Ah well, I’ll just have to try again, what a shame!
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Skylon

Skylon has been a fixture on the London restaurant scene for years. Located on the rear of the Royal Festival Hall, facing out over the south bank and the Thames, the enormous windows are the restaurants best feature. There are still hints of the original post-war architecture but it has been heavily re-designed inside into a sleek, modern dining space.

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Split into two – the front section is a grill/brasserie, while further on represents something closer to ‘fine dining’. The menu is refreshingly simple – there is no a la carte – just order a starter, main and dessert. Dishes are titled just as clearly – lamb, sole, duck etc. The wine list is extensive – we went for a lovely californian Zinfandel.

A complimentary ‘amuse’ started off the meal – small pieces of bread with unremarkable toppings – nice, but by no means special.

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To start I had venison carpaccio. The dish was elegantly presented, the meat sliced thinly and the beetroot carefully cut – but it lacked a certain something. It could easily have been beef.

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My main was the lamb – I asked for it pink, but it came much closer to medium. The jus was a lovely consistency, if a little light on seasoning. The sweetbreads, however, were excellent; crisply fried and delicious. The griotte marmalade was a nice touch while the chard ‘gratin’ was a bit unnecessary – potato would have worked far better.

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Between courses we were brought a hibiscus palate cleanser. The foam was slightly unusual – i’m assuming they’ve used agar agar and I’m not sure it’s worked. While it was very light, the taste was just faintly floral. Citrus would have felt cleaner!

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For dessert I opted for their take on a black forest gateaux. This dish certainly stepped up the technicality of the cooking both in terms of technique and textural contrast. Light modernist sponge (gas siphon and a microwave?) with rich cherries, chocolate pieces, almond crumble and a lovely pistachio ice cream. It was clean, precise, and if you like deconstruction – great fun. My only criticism would be a lack of booze – a good slug of kirsch would have transformed the dish.

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Skylon is a good restaurant – anything else is just being mean. Service was friendly, if a little slow, and the dining room is gorgeous, if a little loud. They serve food which is refined and elegant, if a little soulless. It’s a study in ‘fine dining’ but makes you miss those who are prepared to push it a little further and let their ingredients sing.

Skylon on Urbanspoon

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Restaurant rankings are a funny old game – it’s a bit like scoring artwork: terribly subjective and prone to fads, trends and conservatism. While in America systems like Zagat and their own ‘star’ system reign supreme and in the UK AA rosettes are a good indication – anywhere in the world Michelin and the ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ are the gold standard.

Michelin has a reputation for being a little stuffy, a little conservative – it rewards the fine dining and reverence of tradition, though more recent additions – like the Hand and Flowers – are challenging this view. Anonymous inspectors visit restaurants several times over a period of months before meeting to agree a score.

The ‘World’s 50 Best’ or San Pellegrino rankings, is a little more relaxed – it rewards innovation and dining experience in the broadest sense. It’s voted for by a panel of some 900 respected food industry types and is updated yearly at a glamorous awards ceremony.

Only a few restaurants manage to make it onto both lists – delighting that diverse group is very difficult. I’ve been to Momofuku Ssam Bar, which was, at the time, number 37 on the list. That was a great experience – but nothing compared to this evening when I visited No. 7.

Dinner by Heston Blumental – Seventh Best Restaurant in the World, One Michelin Star

I’m a huge fan of Heston – I love his lack of traditional training, his attention to detail and his pursuit of scientific solutions to cooking problems. Dinner is his first major restaurant outside of the Fat Duck and is run by Ashley Palmer-Watts, who was instrumental to the Fat Duck gaining it’s third star and topping the San Pellegrino rankings. It does something very unique – celebrating Britain’s culinary heritage while using the latest techniques. Tradition and Cutting Edge in perfect harmony.

Situated in the opulent Mandarin Oriental hotel in Knightsbridge – the dining room is gorgeous. The kitchen has glass walls and is visible from almost anywhere in the room, which I really like! Light fittings made from antique jelly moulds provide a quirky aspect and hint that this isn’t your usual stuffy fine dining establishment.

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Meat Fruit
This is one of their signature dishes – a medieval centrepiece disguising one food as another. The mandarin is in fact a delicious foie gras and chicken liver parfait, served with some excellent toasted brioche. The flavours blend beautifully – rich creamy foie gras, fragrant liver and just a gentle hint of alcohol cutting through the richness, all lifted by the sharp mandarin jelly-peel. I was delighted when the waiter spotted i’d almost demolished the brioche and still had half the parfait left – he promptly signalled the kitchen and a second slice appeared as if by magic. Excellent service.

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Earl Grey Tea cured Salmon
I’m not a big fan of Earl Grey in it’s own right – I find the bergamot a little astringent, but this was delicious. The rich smooth salmon seemed to soak up the flavours of the tea, little bursts of relish and smoked roe added contrast and the sorrel was perfect – unusual and fresh.

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Black Foot Pork Chop
I don’t normally order pork in restaurants – it’s easy to screw up and can be terribly bland. This has got to be the best pork i’ve ever eaten – cooked sous vide and just medium it was moist, rich and thoroughly piggy. It came with a delicious savoury glaze, a ham hock and sauce Robert. It’s sprinkled with some crispy lardo (a terribly trendy ingredient) but it did bring some lovely texture

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Fillet of Aberdeen Angus

I’m wary of Angus, and especially of fillet. In my mind a steak should be a rib-eye and ideally from an English Longhorn. This was a truly marvellous piece of meat – cooked on a Josper grill with a great deal of care and attention. The beef jus was nicely reduced without being too sticky and some bone marrow on top was a lovely touch. It came with the famous ‘Triple cooked chips’ which were superb – well seasoned, very crisp but with a soft fluffy inside.

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In terms of sides we went for ‘carrots and carroway’ and ‘braised lettuce and peas’. Both were excellent – cooked lettuce is fast turning into one my favourite accompaniments!

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Tipsy Cake
For dessert I had to order their signature dish. It consists of a spit roasted pineapple slice, served with rich doughy cake in a sauternes and brandy cream sauce. The pineapple is a revelation – rich and sticky without the excessive sweetness you often get when it’s cooked. The cake was divine – pillowly and surprisingly light. The cream was delicious, nicely tieing together the cake and fruit.

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Taffety Tart
The tart was a piece of very precise pastry work. Think of a millefeuille with a lovely complex flavour profile, first sweet, then vanilla and finally an aniseed hit.

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Chocolate Ganache and Orange Blossom Biscuit
We were brought this little extra dessert with coffee – a morsel of lovely light chocolate ganache with fragrant, floral biscuit.

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Conclusion
The overall experience was marvellous – they’re cooking food that you won’t see anywhere else, the service is excellent and the environment is lovely. The wine list is extensive, if a little steep but otherwise – for the quality and class – the meal represents very good value.

I love that they celebrate Britishness – both in tradition and ingredients, it’s presented in a sophisticated, modern manner, but with all the warmth and comfort of something much more traditional and closer to home. It fully deserves it’s accolades and if you love food – you owe it to yourself to visit.
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal on Urbanspoon

Cask

Cask is one of the real joys of Pimlico. Tucked a few minutes stumble from the Tube it serves a staggering array of beer. Literally hundreds of different types are available in every strength and flavour imaginable. It’s a real celebration of malt, water, yeast and hops.

I’ve eaten here several times before, and always enjoyed the experience – pub classics with a barbecue twist. Recently however, their kitchen has been taken over by ‘Forty Burger’. As the name suggests, they do burgers made with well aged beef. On this visit we sampled their standard ‘Bacon and Cheese’ alongside the ‘Heat’ which marries blue cheese and buffalo wing sauce.

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The burgers are well above average – the bun holds up magnificently, putting the fragile brioche ones found in many other upmarket burgers to shame. The patties are generously sized and are nicely beefy – but I didn’t get much ‘aged’ flavour and they were slightly overcooked for my taste, they really should be medium-rare.

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The fillings were excellent – the bacon is good quality and the cheese tangy without being overpowering. I adored the Heat burger – the buffalo sauce is perfectly pitched even if the blue cheese gets a little lost. The chips were well cooked and nicely crisp – they earn lots of extra points for coming with a whole bucket of ‘Stokes’ condiments – I could eat their BBQ sauce all day.

If you find yourself in this part of town and are in need of a buzzing atmosphere, great beer and solid burgers – this is the place to go. The beer is definitely the star of the show – but the food will put a smile on your face as well.

Cask Pub and Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Little Social

‘Affordable French’ appears to be an emerging trend in London – both Brasserie Zedel and Balthazar have opened in recent months joining established restaurants like 10cases. They offer something a little more refined and unique than the chain alternatives – Cote Brasserie, Cafe Rouge, Brasserie Blanc et al. When Little Social was opened a few months ago it received rave reviews – serving high quality food with a modern twist – it’s been on my ‘must visit’ list for a while and I finally managed to get a lunch reservation.

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Little Social is opposite owner Jason Atherton’s flagship Michelin-starred restaurant – Pollen Street Social. Minutes from Oxford Circus and just off Regent Street it’s about as central as central gets. On arrival I was warmly welcomed by the staff into a wonderful snapshot of Parisian dining: soft art-deco lighting, wood panelling, copper bar and quiet music. Perfect.

The set menu (three courses for £25) is great value but I have to admit I went a la carte. While there is a strong French influence (steak frites) there are some decidedly british dishes (ox cheek). Their wine list is excellent with several good choices available by the glass or carafe. I went with the Pollen Street Social House – a delightfully vibrant red from Anjou. The complimentary bread was delicious and still warm.

Steak Tartare
A dish this simple lives or dies by the quality of its ingredients and they didn’t disappoint. The steak was neatly prepared and carefully spiced, the quails egg was a nice touch.

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Braised Irish ox cheeks, roast marrow bone with sourdough crumb, carrot, horseradish mash
The ox cheek was well cooked, with lovely smooth mash, though I didn’t get much heat from the horseradish . The roasted carrot was cooked well and I really like the bone marrow – it adds another beefy hit. The sourdough crumbs add some textural contrast and really help lift the dish.

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Poutine
I ordered this as a side – it’s a slightly incongruous addition given the French slant of the restaurant but decidedly more-ish nonetheless. For the uninitiated, Poutine is a Canadian ‘delicacy’. Really good chips are slathered in cheese curds and gravy. Here they’ve also added sausage and jalapenos. Yum.

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Apple and blackberry crumble, mascarpone and cinnamon ice-cream
The crumble was served with a degree of ceremony not usually accorded to this humble dessert. A bowl of cinnamon ice cream was placed in front of me before the crumble (in a natty copper pan) was gently stirred and spooned around it. The topping was full of macadamias and walnuts which added a lovely crunch to the proceedings.

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Conclusion
I’ve heard Little Social mentioned in the same breath as Brasserie Zedel, but that’s really doing it a disservice. While both are harking back to an idea of French dining circa 1920 – Little Social isn’t afraid to branch out and play with the concept and delivers it to a far higher standard (with a higher price tag). The food was surprisingly original and thoughtfully cooked. Other reviewers have commented on the hovering staff, but I never felt overly ‘tended’. It’s a great dining experience and a welcome addition to the west end – I look forward to exploring the rest of their menu in the near future!

Little Social on Urbanspoon

The Hand and Flowers

The world of haute cuisine is unashamedly stuffy. Sommeliers prowl among linen clad tables clutching wine lists thicker than dictionaries. Immaculately coiffured waiters glide serenely through extravagantly decorated rooms, explaining in hushed, reverential tones the provenance of course sixteen of the tasting menu. This is the world of the michelin star and the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants, culinary landmarks. So you can imagine the stir when a little pub in Marlow was handed two stars, easily ranking it among the top twenty eating experiences in the UK.

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Set in a quiet little riverside village, around an hour outside London on the train, The Hand and Flowers is a shining example of all that’s wonderful with British food. Over the last eight years Tom Kerridge has honed and refined his vision of the perfect pub. There’s a bar with a great selection of real ales, the dining room is small, initimate and relaxed; and there’s ample parking with a lovely garden. That’s where the similarities with your local stop. Reservations are like hens teeth, for weekends and evenings they’re booked out six months in advance. The waiting staff are friendly and wonderfully efficient. The menu ranges from traditional pub fare (fish and chips) to the exotically gastronomic (whole baby truffle encroute – with foie gras). The wine list is a connoisseurs dream – several keenly priced bottles are available and the selection of ‘natural’ and biodynamic wines is second to none.

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On a beautifully sunny April afternoon I made the trek out from London for a luxuriously late lunch. A gentle stroll through the picturesque village from the station was a great way to start the meal. We were greeted warmly and shown to our table in the centre of the small but perfectly formed dining room – it really does look like a normal, if rather nice, pub. The menu proved a real challenge though – I could have happily picked five or six starters and at least four mains. After much deliberation I went for the Duck and Foie Gras Parfait, followed by the Lamb Bun. My dining companion opted for the Blowtorched Scallops and the Venison.

While we waited, a lovely selection of breads was brought out with a funky vinewood butter bowl and knife. A lovely cone of whitebait also helped ease our hunger pangs.

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Parfait of Duck and Foie Gras with Orange Chutney and Toasted Brioche.
The quenelle was beautifully executed – I snagged a small sample of the chilled parfait with the fork and was instantly rendered speechless. It was incredibly smooth and rich with a gorgeous ducky tang. Adding it to the brioche gave some lovely textural contrast and the sweet, fluffy bread worked really well with the rich parfait. The final flourish was the orange chutney – sticky, spicy and full of citrus flavours. Duck and orange is by no means inventive, but it works for a reason and i’ve never enjoyed the combination more. To create a dish where each element is executed perfectly is one thing – to make them all sing in unison is quite another.

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Blowtorched Scottish Scallop with Warm Roast Chicken Bouillon,
Morels, Nasturtium and Apple.
This dish appeared on Masterchef: The Professionals and is deceptively clever. Cooking the scallops with a blowtorch helps prevent overcooking them while adding the lovely flavour of caramelised scallop. The warm chicken bouillon relies on a modern hydrocolloid to create a thick, warm gel. The flavours are matched and layered with real precision.

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Essex Lamb “Bun” with Sweetbreads and Salsa Verde
This is another of Kerridge’s signature dishes – a beautifully presented bread/pastry sphere encases a protective caul-fat layer, cabbage, slow cooked lamb and sweetbreads and a final nugget of lamb in the centre. It’s a wonderful dish, I love the combination of sweetbreads with two different types of lamb and the salsa verde adds a really nice citrus note with just a delicate mustard hit.

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Loin of Cotswold Venison, King Oyster Mushroom “Farci”, Blowtorched Gem Lettuce and Salt Baked Beetroot
The venison was immaculately cooked, the mushroom provided a lovely earthy note, the lettuce brought a smokey sweetness and the beetroot was sweetly divine. Venison is a great ingredient that doesn’t need embellishment – but if you’re going to do it, this is how. Every element helped support and show a different aspect of the flavour. Magic.

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Hand and Flower Chips
Presented in a little copper pan – these are among the finest chips I have ever snaffled. Cylindrical, freakishly crispy and well seasoned.

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I was initially concerned that we hadn’t ordered enough sides – but by the time we were done we were surprisingly full! With a dessert menu that tempting though – pudding was always going to happen.

Hand & Flowers Chocolate and Ale Cake with Salted Caramel and Muscovado Ice Cream
The immaculate cube of cake (with a lovely powdered coat) masks a salted caramel centre. The muscovado ice cream is inspired and adds a lovely nutty note. The dish was served with a small glass of strong beer which really helped bring out the flavours of the chocolate. It’s a cunning idea and one i’ll definitely be trying in future!

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Banana Soufflé with Gingerbread Custard and Yoghurt Ice Cream
This souffle is nothing if not impressive – a towering edifice to culinary skill. They’ve managed to endow it with a deep banana flavour which marries well with the cinnamon spice of the custard. The texture is almost ethereal, but backed up by a lovely crunchy crumble on the top. Magnificent.

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Conclusion
The Hand and Flowers is a fantastic experience – I adore restaurants that take an idea and polish it to perfection and this is the prime example. There is a daunting array of culinary skill on display and real care and thought taken with each element. They haven’t strayed from the pub format and the really relaxed, friendly environment and staff make it thoroughly enjoyable. The menu is reasonably priced for the ingredients and quality while the set menu represents incredible value – it’s the cheapest michelin starred food in Britain. My only criticism would be that it’s too far away and far too popular. Go – you won’t regret it.

Hand & Flowers on Urbanspoon

Bam-bou

Perched on the corner of Rathbone Place and Percy Street, Bam-bou serves Chinese/Vietnamese/Thai fusion in a converted London town house. The succession of rooms across several floors creates great spaces for group dining and they have a number of set banquet menus to choose from. I’m always slightly nervous about restaurants that blend very different asian styles – instead of capturing the best of both you often end up with a strangely spiced melange – but having heard glowing reviews from several trusted sources I was looking forward to giving it a go!

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The menu we went for was:

Giant Crackers with Bam-Bou Chilli Jam
Nice crackers, but after A. Wong I question if they’re really giant. The jam was lovely, sticky with just the right amount of bite.

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Roast Red pepper and Mango Salad
This was probably the stand out dish for me. Sweet, delicious, light, tropical and just hot enough. Balancing this kind of combination is very difficult and they got it right on the mark.

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Asian crab Cakes with Cucumber Relish
Lovely meaty crab cakes with a firm texture. The lightly pickled cucumber went well and cut through the richness nicely.

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Crispy Prawn Roll with Nouc Cham
The rolls were just ‘good’. Crispy, but a little light on the title ingredient, however the sauce really made it – intriguing and exotic. Yum.

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Grilled Pork Salad with Peanuts and Garlic
I approve of any salad which shoe-horns in some animal. The textural contrast is really the crux of the dish and it works, lots of crisp and crunch. I’d have like to have seen them extend it the other way – some pillowy dumpling pieces would have made it incredible.

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Wok Fried Mushrooms with Broccoli, Sesame and Ginger
While the broccoli made up the bulk of the dish, the star was certainly the mushrooms. Rich, meaty and full of umami.

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Yellow Duck Curry with Pumpkin
A really lovely dish with a strong Thai influence – lots of coconut and lemongrass.

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Steamed Sea Bass with Edamame Salad and Ginger Dressing
At the bottom of a mound of oriental veg is some really well cooked fish – the seabass is a perfect vehicle for the aromatic flavours, they just need to tweak the presentation to show it off!

Stir Fried Prawns with chili and Tomato
A classic combination of flavours. Like the last prawn dish – this was really good, just a little light on the prawns!

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Served with:
Steamed Fragrant Rice
Bam-Bou Noodles with beansprouts and Ginger – A bit of a non-event, compared to the quality of the other dishes – this was a bit ‘meh’. Noodles should have body, the beansprouts should have a bite, it’s not rocket science!
Work-fried Bok Choi with green Chilli and Tamari – The bak choi were small and tender, the seasoning was quite conservative which befits a side, but they could have pushed it a little further.

Oriental Fruit Plate – An exotic mix of fruit, hard to muck up.

Kumquat Brulee – I’m a sucker for anything vaguely citrusy and this was essentially marmelade brulee – what’s not to like!? The crust was thin and crisp while the custard was almost a panna cotta in texture. All it needed was a wildly inauthentic shot of Gran Marnier.

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Service was polite and friendly and they were perfectly happy for us to move at our own pace through the courses. They have a nicely varied wine list and were happy to cater for our group’s varied dietary requirements.

Fusion cusine is very difficult to pull off but they produced a great meal with lovely variation, from the sweet and light to the rich and dark – if you’ve got a group of friends who are looking for a funmeal somewhere a little different then this is a great shout!

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