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About robmcdonald49

Chef, Engineer, Kitchen Geek.

Bubbledogs

Bubbledogs enjoyed one of the hottest restaurant openings of recent times. It’s spent the last few months floating around the top of the ‘talk of the town’ ratings and has generated a phenomenal buzz. When I turned up on a Tuesday evening, the substantial (90 minute) queue was testament to their success – but is there any fire beneath all the smoke?

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Bubbledogs is on Charlotte Street, near Tottenham Court Road and Oxford Street. The restaurant is small, seating around 40 people. The decor is fun with sausage dog cartoons and a ‘warehouse crossed with a ski chalet’ feel.

Their concept is very simple – gourmet hot dogs and unusual, small producer, champagne. Hot dogs are available in a range of styles, and in beef or pork. There are only three sides and no desserts. Five or six champagnes are available by the glass and many more by the bottle.

I sampled the Buffalo Dog and the Fourth of July. The bun is wonderfully soft and the sausage nicely spiced if rather thin – I’d have preferred a bit more meat! The toppings were generous and really tasty, the flavour combinations working well with some great textural contrast. I particularly liked the blue cheese – it’s great with the sausage and something I fully intend to borrow. The sweet potato fries were delicious with a really nice crunch. I wasn’t impressed with the Potato Tots – they were just a bit bland.

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The champagne was the real star. I sampled four glasses, all delicious and very different. They ranged from light and fruity to rich and mineraly. In terms of how they work with the hot dogs, I liked it from a ‘child’s fizzy drink’ perspective, it felt like a grown up take on lemonade at a barbecue. Given the level of spice in the food I’m not sure it gives the subtle flavours of the fizz a chance to shine, but it’s a really fun match nonetheless.

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The service was faultless. The hostess on the door was great while we were queueing. Later on, inside, she recognised us as people who’d been waiting a while and took the time to talk to us.

I had a really great time – I’m not sure how long the concept will last, but I like restaurants that focus on one thing and do it well. They’ll face some real challenge when Five Guys finally open in London, but for now they’re pretty unique. I’d like to see more sides, more dips and bigger sausages. They are also very very busy – more locations would help ease the pressure and make getting a table easier. But if you can get there at at time when there isn’t a queue? It’s the perfect ‘fast food’.

Bubbledogs on Urbanspoon

Caravan

Brunch is a growing trend in London. I recently sampled one of the best breakfasts going so this had a lot to live up to. Part of the huge redevelopment around Kings Cross, Caravan is in an old warehouse with the appropriate brickwork and exposed ancilliaries.

Wildly popular, you can’t book for brunch, you simply take a numbered bag of flour and wait for your table at the bar. Once our full party (eventually) turned up we didn’t have long to wait but if you do face a longer stint, the coffee is excellent. They roast it fresh on the premises and the staff really know what they’re doing.

I opted for the Caravan fry – a lovely pile of fried mushrooms, bacon and tomatoes with eggs. The cooking was good and they were using really nice ingredients. The menu is innovative and I definitely want to try their salt beef bubble.

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If you’re looking for brunch in central London – this is an excellent choice.

Caravan Kings Cross on Urbanspoon

 

Brasserie Zedel

There’s an undeniable charm to a quiet French bistro – the classic dishes, the smartly dressed staff, dining as an occasion. The eurostar has made a weekend in Paris very easy but for those who can’t quite face the trip there are some great new options popping up across London. There are already a whole plethora of chains – cafe rouge, cote brasserie, brasserie blanc to name but three. They are all perfectly pleasent places to eat but if you fancy something a little more unique then this latest breed of French restaurant might be right up your street. One of the most established is Brasserie Zedel.

Tucked around the corner from Piccadilly and Leicester Square – this is catering on a grand scale. The gorgeous dining room is a masterpiece of art deco design – it’s worth a visit just to enjoy the atmosphere and surroundings. The menu is exactly what you’d expect from a Parisian restaurant – it’s largely in French (English version available) and covers plenty of classics. It’s also very affordable – the set menu is fantastic value.

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To start I had the frogs legs – these were very plump and nicely cooked, but the garlic sauce was a bit timid. With a meat as delicate as frog it really needs all the help it can get!

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For my main I ordered one of their specialities: Choucroute Alsacienne. Three kinds of pork, served on top of a bed of warm pickled cabbage, with a side of fries. The pork was nice and the cabbage above average, but the seasoning was very conservative – they’re not trying to push any boundaries with the cooking.

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Dessert was an easy choice – Gateau Opera. A lovely layered French pastry with a delicate coffee hit. Very nice.

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Overall the service was good considering how busy they were, and the cooking was all to a good standard. If you’re interested in sampling classical french cuisine – this will get you very very close. It’s great fun and, given it’s price point, far better than the alternatives. Bon appetit!

Brasserie Zedel on Urbanspoon

Patty and Bun

As much as I enjoy cutting edge gastronomy – there’s still an undeniable, primeval appeal to a good burger. While my heart still firmly belongs across the pond – the London burger scene is going from strength to strength.

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One of the most popular places at present is Patty and Bun. A stones throw from Bond Street station and the madness of Oxford Street they’ve carved out a niche serving burgers the way they should be – top ingredients, carefully cooked.

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I ordered their basic bacon cheeseburger, a ‘Smokey Robinson’ with a side of rosemary salt fries. The burger itself is a thing of beauty, a toasted brioche bun encasing a thick patty, oozing with onions and cheese. The beef is beautifully cooked, crispy on the outside and incredibly moist on the inside – its a real challenge to eat neatly. The bun holds up well without the structural deficiencies so often found with brioche. The chips are nice, rustic and with a gentle rosemary tang.

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It’s a great burger experience – if you’re in need of a quick lunch it’s in an entirely different league from your usual fast food joint. Now I just need to find time to sample the rest of their menu…

Patty and Bun on Urbanspoon

 

 

Barbecoa

Situated beneath the imposing dome of St Pauls, in the shiny One New Change development, Barbecoa is Jamie Oliver’s steak and barbecue restaurant. Like Jamie’s Italian, there’s a trendy modern feel to the place – helped by some spectacular views of the cathedral.

On a quiet Wednesday lunchtime the place was almost deserted, and the service suitably prompt and friendly. Their menu is well stocked with delicious meaty goodness (this is not one for the vegetarians) and I was really spoilt for choice.

I opted for the fried oyster and chicken starter. Very crisp little balls containing fresh oysters and bite-sized pieces of chicken, hot from the fryer. The accompanying coleslaw was pleasingly sharp and the pickles delicious if a little sparse. The tomato salsa was nice, but a little flat.

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My main was pulled pork with coleslaw and waffle. The pork was incredibly tender and coated in a rich, fruity barbecue sauce with a very gentle chilli hit. The waffle works really well – it’s not as sweet as a traditional batter and adds a nice contrast. I also went for a side of duck fat chips which, while wonderfully fresh, could have been crisper.

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For dessert I had a Calvados Panna Cotta. This is damn near a perfect pudding. It’s got different temperatures, textures and flavours that all blend together beautifully. The panna cotta is actually more of a mousse, but really delicious. The dusting of crumble adds some welcome crunch and the warm doughnuts are crisp and gooey. Heaven on a plate.

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There are quite a few good barbecue places in London now – Bodeans, Pitt Cue Co and John Salt to name just three – but Barbecoa is far bigger and definitely serves a niche: they have a huge variety on offer and a frankly impressive wine and whisky collection – if you’re looking for a relaxed evening out in the City you could do a lot worse!

Barbecoa on Urbanspoon

Duck and Waffle

It’s often said that the three most important things in real estate are location, location, location. While this certainly isn’t true for the restaurant business – it doesn’t hurt. Situated on the 40th floor of Heron Tower in the heart of London, Duck and Waffle has some of the best views going. It’s been the talk of the town for the last few months and I took advantage of a quiet Thursday afternoon to check it out.

The restaurant itself is lovely, a spacious bar out front provides a pleasent waiting room while the main seating area is rightly positioned around the full length windows, with an open kitchen along one wall. The staff were friendly and attentive without being intrusive, and were happy to provide recommendations The menu is intentionally quirky – a real mix of ingredients and influence with a broadly modern British feel.

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I have to admit to being split on the starters – I went for the fried pigs ears and the ox cheek doughnut. I’m only human! The ears were thinly sliced and dusted with a spicy bbq blend. They were lovely and crunchy, but perhaps could have done with some little dips and a bit more attention to detail around hair removal – i’m fine with the odd bristle, but they were pushing it!

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The ox cheek doughnut is a really interesting idea. A ball of slow cooked meat is encased in a spongey batter, dusted with smoked paprika and sugar then served with an apricot jam. It’s an interesting combination of flavours but it does work – it’s a real novelty dish.

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For the main course I felt compelled to try the eponymous duck and waffle. It’s a duck leg served on top of a soft american style waffle with a fried egg and some mustard infused maple syrup. The meat/sweet combination is well established – just see the American fondness for bacon and pancakes for details – but i’ve never seen it done like this. The duck goes really well with the richness of the egg. Technically it was beautifully cooked, and it certainly makes good eating, but i’m not entirely sure i’d order it again single handed – it’s a much better sharing dish!

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For dessert I trusted my waitress’ judgement and went with the Torrejas – a Spanish version of French toast. It came served in a very hot cast iron dish with a lovely caramel sauce, cooked apples and a scoop of ice-cream. The bread had a lovely crunchy crust with soft, delicate innards. Perfect given the swirling snowstorm outside.

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I really enjoyed my visit – the food is cooked to an excellent standard and I like the fact that they are bold with their flavour combinations – it’s a big risk for a restaurant, but they make it work.

Duck & Waffle on Urbanspoon

 

 

 

Hawksmoor Guildhall – Breakfast

Britain may have many culinary sins – but something of which we can be proud (alongside our excellent puddings) is our approach to breakfast. The empire did not spread across the face of the civilised world on croissants or weisswurz – it was a solid English fry-up.

Every greasy spoon in London will put together a fried egg, sausages and bacon – but for the more discerning diner there are a wealth of options. Key to any meat feast is the quality of the ingredients and as I’ve mentioned previously, Hawksmoor have some great suppliers.

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They only serve breakfast at their Guildhall branch – tucked a few minutes walk from Bank station. The atmosphere is quiet and relaxed – a smattering of business breakfasts and foodies tucking into reassuringly vast steaming platters.

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Their standard breakfast sticks to the tried and tested formula, but with excellent attention to detail. The bangers are their own recipe – using a blend of pork, beef and mutton. The three meats work in complete harmony to create a deep, dark sausage. Bliss. The beans also deserve a special mention – straying from the ubiquitous Heinz is brave – but the sticky, spicy house recipe is heavenly. Unbeatable. The toast is also well above average – a lovely rustic slice with good butter, made for soaking up those delicious bone marrow beans.

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As to the extra bits: the orange juice was nice – though I’d have preferred it a little colder, and the coffee was pleasant – in the morning I like a stronger brew than their rather relaxed Ethiopian blend.

That said – it’s by far the best breakfast I’ve had in London and the perfect start to a day of busy sight seeing. If you’re in need of some serious morning sustenance – this is the place to go.

Hawksmoor Guildhall on Urbanspoon

One Year of Blogging and John Salt

Today represents one year of blogging! It’s been a great experience and i’ve really enjoyed it. Over the last year I’ve cooked some great recipes, travelled to some amazing countries and eaten in some of the best restaurants in the world. It’s been a real privilege to share it with well over 3,000 of you out there on the interwebnets. Here’s to another year of amazing food!

John Salt

This place is a foodie mecca. It’s been sat on or around the top of the ‘most talked about’ lists for months. Take the chef from Pitt Cue Co, great ingredients and a top location, add a sprinkle of glowing media coverage and you’ve got yourself an enticing proposition.

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Situated in Islington at first glance it’s just one of many small bars and cafes. The decor is sleek and modern, with a definite warehouse theme. The tables are large and communal, the water jugs comical and the atmosphere relaxed. While it can be nightmare-ish getting a table, I had no trouble on a quiet weekday lunchtime.

The menu itself speaks heavily to current food trends. Pulled pork, nduja, cod cheeks, lardo – these are all great things, but when every other trendy restaurant is doing them too, you need to be good. They also have an extensive beer selection, pulling on some great local producers and a wine list that has several great options by the glass. Perfect for lunch!

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To start I went with their raw beef salad. Little cubes of steak, tossed in a sticky sesame/soy/chilli sauce and served with spring onions and pear cubes. Light, beefy and wonderfully exotic – they’ve got the spice level just right. It’s a great dish which shouldn’t be too hard to copy at home.

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The main event was the Pork Hash. This is a hodgepodge of pulled pork, pork belly, roast potatoes, peas, sweetcorn, black pudding and a breaded egg. It’s really comforting cooking – the kind of thing you can imagine a friend pulling together after a hectic weekend. The pork was meltingly tender, the egg perfectly cooked with a molten centre, and the flavours all blended together really well. The only thing it missed was a bit more sauce to tie it all together.

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I also went for a side of their kimchi fries. The tart korean coleslaw is appearing everywhere these days, but it actually works really well with chips – the slight vinegary note hinting at that classic chip shop condiment. Lumps of pulled pork are mixed through it and make it almost a meal in itself.

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For dessert I had their chocolate, peanut butter, oreo tart. The light biscuit base is topped by a thin layer of peanut butter and a silky chocolate ganache. It’s rich, faintly childish fun – I would have liked a little saltiness on top and perhaps a hint of booze, but it’s still a top dessert.

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The service was excellent throughout – as you’d expect on a quiet Tuesday lunchtime. I’m definitely going to have to visit again – if only to sample their banana dog (take one banana, fry it in doughnut batter and serve with sauce). It’s a great little restaurant and definitely deserves it’s current place in the London foodie pantheon – their real challenge will be to keep hitting the right notes as new fads come on to the scene.

John Salt on Urbanspoon

Burger and Lobster

I’ll admit – I’m a bit late on this one. Burger and Lobster was huge last year and the queues became legendary. It’s a testament to the popularity of their concept and the standard of their food that even a year later it can still take two hours to get a table. Relatively early on a weekday night we were seated in around an hour – far more reasonable!

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For those who aren’t familiar – Burger and Lobster serves just that. For £20 you get a Lobster (steamed, grilled or in a roll) or a Burger (top quality beef in a brioche bun). You can also splash out on some truly enormous lobsters (7lb 8oz anyone!?)

The atmosphere is informal and relaxed – the music is a little loud, but the waiters are friendly and the service prompt. With any restaurant that limits itself to just a handful of ingredients it needs to be perfect. I didn’t have a chance to sample the burger – that will have to wait for another trip – but I can certainly speak to the lobster. I ordered mine grilled with garlic and lemon butter and it was excellent. Cooked quickly (to avoid the dreaded cotton wool texture) it had a couple of nice char marks. The chips were light and crisp and the side salad – so often an afterthought – was surprisingly good.

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I’ve already written about one of my favourite ‘lobster shack’ places – The Big Easy – so how does it compare? In my mind the Big Easy has a better atmosphere and a much broader menu (great if someone’s not wild about seafood, but frankly, why would you be eating with them then!?) but the lobster is definitely not as good.

I really enjoyed my visit and I’ll certainly be going back – I’d love to try one of their monster sharing lobsters and I really need to investigate their burger. To pick just two items for your menu is incredibly brave but they make it work and in doing so have spawned an entire fad on the London restaurant seen for which they should be applauded. Anything which focuses on great ingredients and perfect cooking is fine in my book.

Burger & Lobster on Urbanspoon

 

 

Weekend Fun

Sometimes even the most dedicated of food bloggers don’t have time to spend hours in the kitchen. With a wide array of (wildly disappointing) sport on offer I had to squeeze everything else around it.

Sea Urchins

I’ve been dying to try these ever since they were featured on Masterchef: The Professionals. Watching seasoned restaurant chefs completely wreck an ingredient was fantastic entertainment. Challenge accepted! The fishmonger at Pimlico’s Tachbrook Street Market is brilliant and had a crate of them nestled alongside his oysters. I’m not going to lie – they’re pretty intimidating up close! I hadn’t appreciated that the spines move, having carefully posed them in the kitchen I came back to find them making a bid for freedom. As Monica showed on Masterchef, you dispatch them by using the heel of a knife to break a circle in the shell around the mouth and pulling out their ‘core’. I like to think I have a pretty strong stomach – I can happily gut fish, shell crabs, bone trotters and play with offal, but this really takes the biscuit. Once it’s discarded you’re left with some ‘juice’ at the bottom of the shell which should be sieved and saved, and the all-important corals. These slightly orange-coloured segments need to be carefully extracted with a small spoon, carefully avoiding the inedible black sections. The corals are very fragile so it’s easy to squash them, especially with smaller urchins.

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Once you’ve extracted your delicious bounty you can decide how to serve them. They taste very like oysters, lots of fresh sea flavours with a hint of creaminess. I really liked them on a small, slightly spicy, cracker with a bit of lemon juice. They’re also delicious with soy sauce.

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Steak

If I had to pick a favourite dish it would probably be steak. I’ve experimented with tonnes of different cuts and methods, but this is my favourite so far. I use a cast iron griddle, no oil and a mixture of smoked and plain sea salt. Finishing the steak with a blowtorch helps ensure a really delicious crust and letting a little butter melt over it while it rests doesn’t do any harm either!

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Swan and Edgar

In need of a trendy Sunday lunch near Marylebone we headed to this little gem. Only a few minutes’ walk from the station it’s a wonderfully quirky pub. The bar is built from stacks of books and the bathrooms are tiled with scrabble letters. Genius!

I went for the pheasant roast (more pubs should offer game as a meat option) and it was really nice – I like my game very pink and this was definitely firmly in the ‘medium’ camp, but it was delicious nonetheless. The Yorkshire pudding was light and crisp and the (rather lonely) single large roast potato was great. The vegetables were average – the parsnips were certainly not crisp which is a serious crime in my book – but the dish was saved by the gravy which was marvellous, lots of rich meaty flavours with a lovely citrus tang.

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For dessert we had beetroot and chocolate brownies. While very subtle, the beetroot definitely kept the brownies moist and the fruit compote/ice cream combo was lovely. Top pud.

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Swan & Edgar on Urbanspoon